Driving itinerary for ten days in the Baltics
- Dates visited: May 2022
- Time Needed: Ten days
- Countries included: Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania
General Information
The three countries that engulf the Baltics are Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. This group of sovereignties has experienced intense change and growth over the past century, particularly with the German occupation in World War II and the subsequent Soviet occupation. All three are now part of the NATO Alliance and are exceptional places to see and understand the hardships of the past and incredible growth and transformation of the present.
This guide outlines a possible itinerary for one to two weeks driving in the Baltics. Below is a quick overview of the proposal:
- Day 1: Tallinn, Estonia
- Day 2: Tallinn, Estonia
- Day 3: Estonia Day trip
- Day 4: Riga, Latvia
- Day 5: Riga, Latvia
- Day 6: Klaipėda, Lithuania
- Day 7: Klaipėda, Lithuania
- Day 8: Vilnius, Lithuania
- Day 9: Vilnius, Lithuania
- Day 10: Lithuania Day Trip
Communication
The majority of people in the main city centers of each country speak fluent English. However, citizens on the outskirts and in the smaller towns do not speak English as well, so download the Google Translate app for better communication.
Payment
Debit/Credit Cards are widely accepted everywhere. I never used cash. No need to take out any Euros, but if feeling so inclined, visit your local bank before leaving to get the best conversion rates.
Overall, traveling through these countries is very affordable in comparison to its neighbors in the Nordics.
Weather
The Baltics experience freezing winters around 20 degrees Fahrenheit and warmer summers with highs around 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Traveling around
I explored all three countries (along with Sweden and Finland) over the course of two weeks. I took the ferry over from Helsinki, Finland to Tallinn, Estonia and explored Tallinn on foot for several days before heading onto Latvia and Lithuania respectively.
To travel to Latvia and Lithuania, I rented a car through Hertz Rental at Tallinn Airport. Americans require an International Drivers License to legally rent in these three countries. AAA issues these permits in person on the spot or by mail for $20 USD so secure this before leaving the United States. You cannot purchase them at airports or rental agencies abroad.
Tallinn, Estonia
- Time Needed: 1.5–2 days, 2–3 nights
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: Old town
General Information
One of Europe’s best preserved medieval towns, Tallinn is filled with unique historic antiquities. The Town Hall Pharmacy has been operating for more than five hundred years while The Maiasmokk Cafe established in 1864 is the oldest one in the country. The city is also home to many ‘newer’ establishments. Estonia has the largest number of startup companies per capita, and Tallinn is the birthplace of the billion dollar corporation, Skype. Tallinn is the perfect mix of old and new and is an incredible place to experience extensive history and modernity.
Places to stay
Old Town and the outskirts of the medieval inner city are the best places to stay while in Tallinn. We rented one of the best Airbnbs that I can’t recommend enough. Accommodating up to four guests, this rental directly overlooks Town Square with incredible views and the best opportunity to people-watch. If this is already booked or too small, there are plenty of other options with Airbnb or quaint little hotels.
Traveling around
The city is so small that everything is completely walkable. To get from the Tallinn Airport to the Old Town city center, take either a fifteen minute Uber or the #2 Bus or #4 Train for less than 2 Euros and a thirty minute trip.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME
Note: If taking the ferry over from Helsinki, Finland, you might get in later in the day based on ferry times. Adjust the agenda based on time of arrival.
DAY ONE: Free walking tour, Telliskivi Creative City, Soviet-era history
Begin the day with a free walking tour to get your bearings and learn the expansive history of the area. Visit Freedom Square, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, and King’s Garden, among many things, to better understand Tallinn as a medieval city, then later a city occupied by the Germans and Soviets.
After, head to Telliskivi Creative City for lunch. A series of art studios, start-ups, and restaurants built in reclaimed factories, Telliskivi is a cultural and modernized neighborhood just outside Old Town. Dine at Balti Jaama Turg, an indoor market with deliciously cheap food stalls then spend an hour wandering through the studios and small boutiques. If thirsty, pop into St. Vitus Brewery for a cold beer.
Walk twenty minutes to the Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom. This museum intricately outlines restricted life in the Soviet era and the freedom experienced post-liberation. It offers a powerful narrative of Soviet ideology and the horrific impact on its victims along with the growth and promise of an unfettered world after occupation.
Purchase a combo ticket for this and the KGB Prison Cells for 14 Euros. After an hour or so exploring this museum, walk fifteen minutes to the KGB Cells to expand your understanding of the occupation. A harrowing site, this museum is built in the former KGB Headquarters and showcases the crimes against humanity committed toward Estonians during the Soviet reign post-World War II. It exhibits personal narratives of those once arrested and enables one to walk through the actual cells that they were held in while under suspicion of tyranny and opposition. If running out of time, opt to visit this museum tomorrow, as the ticket is valid for up to one week.
For dinner, dine at POMO for delicious and affordable Italian fare. End the evening with drinks at Whisper Sister, a speakeasy named after the women that secretly operated speakeasies during the Prohibition era in America. The venue is in a low-lit, modernized basement with a classy list of libations priced a bit more than the general city norm. It’s worth it. Make a reservation at least a day in advance. The place remains locked to the public so upon arrival, phone the speakeasy from the front door and the hostess will let you in.
DAY TWO: Patarei
Sleep in and enjoy a late morning relaxing. Then visit one of the best breakfast spots in the city at the entrance to Old Town, Varav. Indulge in fresh avocado toast, banana bread, and acai bowls. Sit outside in the cute little courtyard and or inside at the counter.
Walk off the breakfast and head fifteen minutes to Patarei Prison on Tallinn Bay. A must-do, Patarei Prison is a three-story naval fortress initially built for the Russian defense system in the 19th century. In the 1940’s it was converted into a prison and execution site by the Nazis and later used by the Soviets to house thousands of political prisoners and innocent citizens. Extreme torture and mass executions took place here and it is now a monument for victims of Communism. For eight Euros, purchase full access to explore this troubling site and experience the harsh conditions of the cells, torture chambers, and leader offices.
Spend the rest of the day exploring anything you have yet to see in the city. Toompea Castle, a medieval fortress neighboring Old Town, offers beautiful grounds to walk around. Patkuli Viewing Platform and Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform are two places to see gorgeous views of the city. If planning on going to Riga, Latvia or Helsinki, Finland, also consider leaving this afternoon to be in the new city by dinner.
If you do stick around for a final meal, enjoy dinner at either Olde Hansa, a local medieval-style restaurant that’s a bit touristy but delicious, or Manna La Roosa, a quirky joint with unique decorations and fun libations. Wash down dinner with a drink at the Dubliner Pub.
OPTIONAL DAY THREE: Day trip
Tallinn offers several day trips that are worth exploring:
- Lahemaa National Park — A forty-five minute drive from Tallinn, Lahemaa is one of Europe’s largest national parks and an important reserve forest. It offers gorgeous landscapes, views of the Gulf of Finland, and bogs. Ancient Estonians believed bogs were the gateway to the sky and Gods, so these wetlands play an important role in Estonian culture. One of the best bogs to visit in the park is Viru Bog. Walk either the 3.5km trail or 6km loop and climb the viewing tower to see everything from above. The best way to get there is to rent a car at Tallinn Airport (just fifteen minutes from Old Town).
- Helsinki, Finland — Take the three-hour ferry early in the morning to Helsinki and spend the day exploring the city. Truthfully, a day trip is not enough time to really see everything, so consider spending two full days instead. For an outline of all things Helsinki, visit my post here.
- Riga, Latvia — Over four hours by car, Riga is not a day trip, but a must-do if time permits. Continue reading for the Riga outline.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Balti Jaama Turg — Telliskivi Creative City food hall
- St. Vitus Brewery — Telliskivi Creative City
- Manna La Roosa — quirky dinner
- Olde Hansa — traditional lunch/dinner
- POMO — Italian, dinner
- Varav — breakfast, cafe
- Dubliner Pub — bar
- Whisper Sister — speakeasy
Driving in the Baltics
The progression of my Baltics trip included renting a car from the Tallinn Airport and driving four hours to Riga, Latvia. Cell service is available the entire route so accessing Google Maps is not a problem. The real issues involve the speed traps located randomly all over the Baltics and the lack of speed limit signs designating how fast one can truly go. Read up on all basic driving laws before leaving and stick to the speed limit at all times. Google Maps displays many of the speed radars, but does not highlight every one — some go undetected until you are physically driving by. I went barely over the speed limit without realizing it (due to lack of signage) and received two speeding tickets worth approximately fifty Euros each. Policemen never pulled me over — instead I received the tickets via Hertz about a week later. Hertz charged me automatically after paying the bill on my behalf. If two weeks pass by and nothing happens, it is likely you did not get any tickets.
Another item to note — the streets of the main Baltic cities and villages are rocky, uneven, and zigzagging. So much so that I got a nail in my tire in Riga and had to swap cars at the Riga Airport. Overall, drive slowly and calmly and you’ll likely be fine.
Taking the bus to Riga is also an option, though you’d miss the opportunity to stop at any beachside towns and take your time. Buses run frequently for $15-$25 USD one way and take about 4h30. Check out the schedules on Rome2Rio.
Parnu, Estonia
Before entering Latvia, take a break at the Estonian beach town of Parnu, located 90 minutes from Tallinn on the Baltic Sea. Typically packed with Estonian tourists in the summer, it was empty when we visited in May. Regardless, it was a great stopping point. Skip the center of town itself (especially during this sleepier time of year) and head right to the seaside to walk the beach. Bathrooms are located next to the parking lot should you need them. Once ready, head back in the car and drive the remaining 2h20 to Riga.
Riga, Latvia
- Time Needed: 1 day, 1–2 nights
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: Old town
General Information
The birthplace of jeans and the Christmas tree, Riga is an incredible city reflecting a unique combination of medieval and modern. It was founded in 1201 and is the largest city in all three Baltic countries.
Places to stay
Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel is an affordable place to stay if looking to meet fellow backpackers and party. Key: Party. Reserve a private or shared room, but keep in mind the walls are thin so don’t expect to get the best night’s sleep. To add, with a large party atmosphere, the bathrooms are not the cleanest. Airbnbs and boutique hotels are an excellent choice for a more relaxed and calm atmosphere.
Traveling around
Riga’s streets, mostly cobblestone, are difficult to maneuver in a car. Be on alert and drive slowly. Because most everything is accessible and easier to navigate on foot, stick to this method as much as possible.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME
DAY FOUR: Free walking tour, explore the city
Begin the day at Martina’s Bakery for the most authentic pastries, bread rolls, and cakes. Then, as I love to recommend, take a free walking tour of Old Town, a Unesco World Heritage site. Visit Town Hall Square, the House of Blackheads where the first Christmas Tree was invented, and St. Peter’s Church. Learn about the history and impact of World War II and the Soviet Union in Riga. My guide was a child when the Soviet Union fell in Latvia in 1991 and could speak to his experience which was insanely unique and interesting. Seeing key pieces of history and talking to those directly impacted really provides perspective on how serious (and recent!) the events and occupations occurred.
Grab lunch at Lido, a local chain serving traditional Latvian cuisine buffet-style. Although not necessarily known for its food, Latvia offers an incredible array that’s worth tasting. At Lido, try everything from Aukstā Zupa (cold soup) to Kartupeļu Pankūkas (grated potato pancakes) to Kotletes (minced meat patties).
Buffets tend to put people in comas, so to avoid this, walk off the meal on your way to the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia. A phenomenal institution, it outlines the horrors and numerous occupations that befell the city over the past several centuries. Then leave the Old Town boundaries to explore the greater city. The area just outside Old Town is incredibly modern, so spend time wandering the streets to take in this side of Riga.
Finish the day with dinner at ALA Pagrabs, one of the best places we had dinner on the entire trip. ALA offers traditional Latvian cuisine in a low-lit environment. Dine on meatballs and honey beer and be sure to stay for the live music. Once the music’s over, stop by the Armory Bar or Aussie Backpackers Pub for a cheap nightcap.
DAY FIVE: Explore modern Riga
Opt to spend Day Two in Riga further exploring the modern parts of the city (which we ran out of time to do), or get back in the car and continue on to the seaside town of Klaipėda, Lithuania.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- The Armory Bar — low-key drinks
- Aussie Backpackers Pub — low-key drinks
- Martina’s Bakery — breakfast/sweets
- ALA Pagrabs — dinner/drinks, live music
- Kas dārzā — lunch/dinner
- Lido Restaurant — traditional Latvian food, buffet style
Klaipėda, Lithuania
- Time Needed: 2 days, 2 nights
- Neighborhoods to Stay In:
General Information
The third largest city in Lithuania, Klaipėda is a beach town within three hours of Kaliningrad, Russia. As of May 2022, Americans are not allowed into Kaliningrad (it is not safe with the ongoing Ukraine War), so stick to Lithuania.
There are two routes to get to Klaipėda from Riga — one through Jelgava and Šiauliai inland and the other through Liepāja and Palanga along the water. For just ten minutes more in drive time, take the coastal route for beautiful sea views and fields of yellow flowers (when in season). If you do not have a car, take the 4h30 bus for $20 USD.
Note: If short on time, skip Klaipėda and head right to Vilnius. The drive to Vilnius is 3h30 while the bus is 3h45 for $20 USD. However, Klaipėda is a town that mostly only Lithuanians visit, so it is cool to see a place from a local perspective. If time permits, make the trek.
Places to stay
I cannot recommend this four person Airbnb enough. Not only is it affordable and adorable, but also has a fully stocked kitchen, covered underground parking, and incredible aerial city views. If this is booked, Airbnb offers a handful of similar options. Numerous hotels hover around the same prices but are less impressive and have lower reviews.
Traveling around
A car is paramount to really be able to see Klaipėda, though Ubers and taxis are an option. The downtown area, however, is walkable from most hotels and Airbnbs.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME
DAY SIX: Explore Klaipėda
One of the major things to do in Klaipėda is to visit the Curonian Spit. A Unesco World Heritage Site, the area is a massive series of sand dunes averaging 115 feet high that separate the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea. It is divided between Lithuanian and Russian ownership. The only way to get to the Spit is by ferry (which accepts both pedestrians and cars depending on the ferry). Consider spending the majority of the day exploring this area, primarily the colorful fisherman village of Nida which is the closest town to the Russian border.
Regretfully, we opted out of this because we were exhausted, overwhelmed by the idea of getting on a ferry, and a bit concerned about being so close to Russia. After talking to locals later in the day, we realized we should have gone as we would have been completely safe and the site is truly gorgeous.
Instead of visiting the Curonian Spit, we opted to pack a picnic and drive fifteen minutes to Melnrage, a clean and beautiful local beach, to spend the day relaxing next to the Baltic Sea. Paid parking is abundant. If you so dare, drive another ten minutes down the road to hit Giruliai Nudist Beach.
Upon getting back into town, take an hour or so to explore the little shops and quaint architecture around Old Town and the Danė Riverfront. Faksas and Bradakas are two centrally located riverfront bars worth stopping into before dinner. Make a reservation at Monai for a classy yet affordable and delicious modern dinner. Meridian is another dinner option. Located in an actual sailing vessel, enjoy Mediterranean fare while aboard a 1948 Finnish sailboat. MOMO Grill is a third option, known for its locally sourced food.
DAY SEVEN: Day trip to Palanga
If time permits, spend an additional day or morning in Palanga, a resort town thirty minutes from Klaipėda. Walk Jonas Basanavičius Street, a trendy area known for its lively bars and restaurants. Enjoy coffee at Coffee Inn or Fotokava, then grab lunch at Floros Simfonija, a great restaurant with outdoor seating or Onorė that serves classic European fare.
Once ready, drive the 3h30 hours to Vilnius. Busing to Vilnius is also an option. Leave from either Palanga or Klaipėda and spend around 4h30 on the bus for $20 USD.
Note: You can also opt to stop in Palanga on your way to Vilnius from Riga as it’s on the way.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Monai — dinner
- Meridian — dinner
- MOMO Grill — dinner
- Faksas — bar
- Bradakas — bar
Vilnius, Lithuania
- Time Needed: 2 days, 2 nights
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: Old Town, Downtown
General Information
Vilnius is over seven hundred years old, with the language spoken throughout the country, Lithuanian, being one of the oldest languages in the world. The city is an amalgamation of ancient and progress. Its Old Town is a Unesco World Heritage site of winding cobblestone streets, while the Downtown and business sectors exemplify modernity through its cocktail bars and music venues.
Places to stay
If looking for a traditional hotel downtown, the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva is a great option. The buffet breakfast is massive and delicious — opt for avocado toast or made-to-order omelets. I loved my stay here because it is located downtown in a less touristy section so I was able to see a part of the city I wouldn’t necessarily visit. However, the hotel did feel a little too American-esque. One can also consider staying in one of the many little hotels or Airbnbs in Old Town, a thirty minute walk from downtown.
Traveling around
Vilnius is a very walkable city, though Ubers and taxis are available. Opt to take taxis for far cheaper fare — just clarify the price ahead of time. I kept my rental car for one day to travel to Paneriai and Trakai Castle on my own, but one can also opt to take a guided tour with transportation included.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME
DAY EIGHT: Free walking tour, Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights
A free walking tour of Old Town is the best way to begin in Vilnius. Visit the Presidential Palace where the president lives today — and be in awe that one can walk right up to the door (unlike in America where everything is immensely secured!). Enter the Republic of Uzupis, a ‘self-declared country’ or ‘micro-nation’ home to artists and progressives practicing equality, love for culture, and ‘humor over seriousness.’ Its Constitution is baked in hilarity and equity, with lines like “Everyone has the right to celebrate or not celebrate their birthday” and “Everyone has the right to be lazy.” Vilnius University and Cathedral Square are also part of this excursion.
Grab lunch in Old Town post-tour at Etno Dvaras for traditional and affordable Lithuanian food. If that isn’t what you fancy, walk ten minutes to the Downtown Food Hall and Kino Deli for an array of indoor food stalls offering everything from burgers to sushi to fish and chips.
Once full, walk another ten minutes to the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights. Located in the former KGB Prison, it exhibits the history of the Soviet reign, the horrifying imprisonment of thousands of innocent civilians, and the substantial fight for independence. Entrance is six Euros and a full walk through will take approximately one hour. It is closed Mondays and Tuesdays so plan accordingly.
End the day with dinner at Leleko, an authentic and low key Ukrainian restaurant. Reservations are not required, so feel free to walk in. La Pepa is another great place that offers quality Spanish cuisine. For cocktails and top floor views, head to the Sky Bar at the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. Just keep in mind that this place tends to blast the music a little too loud, so don’t expect complete tranquility.
DAY NINE: Paneriai Memorial Park, Trakai Castle, and/or the Undiscovered Free Walking Tour
Today involves several options. Out of everything, Paneriai Memorial Park is the main must-do. Approximately 20 minutes from downtown Vilnius, the park was once the site of mass murder during the Holocaust and is now a memorial for the 100,000+ victims senselessly killed in these woods. Visitors can walk up to the mass burial sites and see the large burn pits or visit the museum with numerous artifacts and belongings from the murdered. The museum is closed on Mondays and Saturdays, and during the months of October through May is open by appointment only.
The issue with Paneriai is that it is not easy to get to. Public transportation is a pain, so consider taking an Uber — though I am unsure if there are Ubers to take you home from the park as it feels to be in the middle of nowhere. One could also rent a car from the airport which is just a fifteen minute Uber from Downtown. The other option is to book a tour of Paneriai and Trakai Castle.
I’d recommend skipping Trakai if possible, but I haven’t been able to find any tours of just Paneriai from Vilnius. Taking this combined tour is worth it to see the park. Trakai, once the capital of Lithuania, houses the gothic-style 14th century Trakai Castle built beside one of the deepest lakes in the country. Although the views are gorgeous, the castle and town itself are fairly boring and small. Visiting without a tour is a waste of time as the signage is mostly in Lithuanian so it is impossible to understand what you’re looking at. If driving yourself, purchase a ticket for an English-guided tour. Don’t cheap out as I did.
Another option for the day is to head back to Vilnius in time for the Undiscovered Free Walking Tour. Very different from the Old Town Tour and surprisingly worth it, this guided excursion outlines the modern structures in the business sector as well as the 19th and 20th century architecture hidden behind it. The tour is only Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 1:30 pm so plan accordingly.
OPTIONAL DAY TEN: Day trip to Kaunas
I ran out of time to visit Kaunas, but hear this city, just an hour and fifteen minute drive from Vilnius, is great to see should time permit. It is the second largest city in Lithuania and offers many things to explore including the shopping district Freedom Avenue, Santakos Park, and Old Town.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Downtown Food Hall and Kino Deli — lunch
- Etno Dvaras — lunch/dinner
- La Pepa — Spanish food — brunch/dinner
- Leleko — Ukrainian food
- Meat Lovers Pub — dinner/drinks
- Sky Bar — cocktails
