Itinerary for a Weekend in Chefchaouen, Morocco
- Dates visited: April 2024
- Time Needed: 2 full days, 3 nights
General Information
Morocco is a country of forty million people in Northern Africa on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Although it’s the continent’s only monarchy-led nation, it’s comprised of both a Parliament and Constitution. This wasn’t always the case. Over the years, it has been inhabited by indigenous Berber tribes, the Roman and Byzantine empires, and later Arab rulers. It’s also been occupied by the Portuguese, Spanish, and French. It wasn’t until 1956 that the country regained its independence from external powers. Ever since, it has operated under the rule of both a monarch and prime minister. Overall, these rich and diverse Berber, African, Arab, and European influences have created a cultural melting pot and unique place to explore.
Chefchaouen, a northern town of 40,000 people in the Rif Mountains, was founded in the 15th century by a noble family who yearned to protect the land against Portuguese conquests. The area was fortified by a wall referred to as a “kasbah” with seven gated entrances that are still intact today. Its name in Berber means “look at the horns”, an expression outlining the two peaks of the mountains that frame the town. Its shortened name of “Chaouen” is also used frequently — so don’t get confused!
Today it’s the most instagrammed city in the world — primarily due to its famous feature — the blue paint that covers every wall and street. Several theories exist around the origin of the ubiquitous blue. Some believe the color derived from the Jewish population who inhabited the area in the 15th century. In Jewish culture, blue symbolizes the sky and represents paradise and tranquility so painting the buildings these shades was thought to connect residents to heaven. Other theories insist it is everywhere to represent the gorgeous blue of the Mediterranean Sea or the nearby Ras el-Maa waterfall where citizens get their drinking water. Another assumption that was quickly shut down by my tour guide was that the blue was used to deter mosquitoes as it confuses them. His house, as he vehemently stated, is covered in this pesky insect so this hypothesis couldn’t possibly be true. Take it with a grain of salt.
In summation, the city has numerous things to do and see over the course of two days. Keep in mind that this guide is for groups that love to walk everywhere and remain always on the go. Feel free to alter based on your interests and abilities.
- Day One: Explore Old Town Medina
- Day Two: Rif Mountain Hike
Communication
Five main languages are spoken in Morocco. The two official languages are Arabic and Berber — a unique tongue with three dialects that is spoken by the indigenous Amazigh (Berber) tribes. The third primary but unofficial language of the country is French. Many locals explicitly state that they only speak French in formal settings or to “show off” to others as it’s considered a language for the highly educated. They do not use it to communicate with each other in day-to-day conversations. Scores of Moroccans also speak English. Additionally, Spanish is spoken frequently in Chefchaouen and other northern cities due to the area’s large Spanish influence. With this array of options, it’s easy to get around this town.
Wifi
WiFi is relatively strong at most hotels and infrequently available at other establishments. The airports only offer wifi via SMS texting code which requires one to be off airplane mode to receive the login text. This can be limiting for those without international phone plans.
Weather
Chefchaouen has hot, humid summers and cold, wet winters with occasional snow. The nicest time of year is March through May when temperatures are mild and comfortable. However, because of this, crowds are higher. September and October offer great weather as well and with fewer crowds.
Safety
Chefchaouen is one of the safest places in Morocco. Unlike Fez and Marrakech, even petty crimes like pickpocketing and bag snatching are infrequent. In any other major tourist town, travelers should drape their bags across their body, not just sling it on their shoulder, as numerous people have reported thieves walking or biking by and grabbing possessions. Thankfully — this isn’t a concern in Chaouen!
On a different note — the area has the perfect climate for growing cannabis. In the fall, fields surrounding the village are covered in the plant. At this time, selling and consuming marijuana is illegal. However, the government is considering exporting the product for economic gains. As a result, it is relatively easy to purchase weed or hash on the street as many locals walk around whispering to tourists that they sell it. Remember — it’s illegal — and not worth the risk of getting caught in a foreign country. Play it safe and avoid.
Transportation
The closest airport to Chaouen is Tangier-Ibn Battouta Intl. Airport (TNG) which is approximately a two to three hour drive via rental car, taxi, private transfer or CTM Bus. Major cities like Fez and Casablanca are also within driving distance. Roads across the country are well paved so the drive is easy — just ensure your seatbelt is fastened as police maintain highway checkpoints. If stopped, they’ll check the car to confirm all passengers are wearing seatbelts and fine the driver $30 USD if everyone isn’t secured in. “Click it or ticket” as they say!
Notice many donkeys tied up sporadically on the roadside? They are owned by locals who ride the animals from their homes to bus “stops” where they then hop on public transportation to get to weekly markets. Talk about a green carbon footprint.
The town itself is very walkable so cars aren’t needed. However, if you’d prefer to taxi, take the red cabs which are reliable and cash only. Negotiate the price ahead of time. Uber is unavailable.
Note: I know this guide is titled “a weekend in Chefchaouen”, but try to visit during the weekday to avoid crowds as many Moroccans flock to the Blue City on Saturdays and Sundays.
Travel During Ramadan
Morocco is a majority-Muslim nation, exemplified in the fact that it is home to over 55,000 mosques — the most in all of Africa. Ramadan, the Islamic holy month, is the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. Its exact dates change every year. During this time, those that celebrate fast every day from sunup to sundown. In most countries, this means that many restaurants and establishments have different hours or are closed during the day. In Morocco, this impacts more than just those that practice Islam. Shops and tourist attractions tend to stay open but offer reduced hours. Most restaurants remain closed until sunset. It is also forbidden to eat or drink in public for everyone — not just Muslims — until dark. Respect these customs.
Eid, the holiday immediately following Ramadan that marks the end of fasting, lasts around three days and is filled with eating and celebration. Many establishments are closed or have limited hours during this time. Keep these holidays in mind as it is restricting for travel.
Fun fact: Regardless of whether it’s Ramadan, the Call to Prayer in Oman is live in every mosque — never pre-recorded! Another thing to note is that regardless if it’s Ramadan, some places are closed or have limited hours on Fridays, the Muslim holy day. Plan accordingly.
Dining
Moroccan cuisine is known for its indulgent flavors and aromatic spices. The country is the #1 producer of oranges in Africa and the third largest international producer of olives after Spain and Italy. So much so that the nation is home to over sixty-five varieties! It’s also a main producer of saffron; one of the most expensive and highly sought after spices in the world. Close to two hundred flowers are required to generate just one gram. Traveling to this country is a treat as these ingredients can be found frequently in Moroccan dishes.
One of the most iconic entrees to try while traveling the country is tagine. This traditional dish is often made with meat, dried fruits, and vegetables and cooked in an earthenware pot for which it is named. Another main staple is “bissara” or fava bean soup, served warm with olive oil and cumin and consumed at all times of day. Chaouen is known to have the best in the nation so don’t leave without trying it here. And lastly, be sure to taste a “pastilla”, a filo-dough pastry often stuffed with chicken, almonds, eggs, and surprisingly cinnamon, which gives it a sweet spin.
As for drinks — the most popular is mint tea. This sugary delight, referred to as “Berber whiskey” by many locals, is a symbol of hospitality in Moroccan culture and frequently provided free of charge upon checking into hotels.
Note: Almond flour is used in many dishes; oftentimes discreetly. Mention any nut allergies when ordering food even if it doesn’t seem like nuts would be part of the recipe.
Drinking Water
Tap water is not potable. Unfortunately, public fountains are hard to come by, so hauling around a refillable water bottle is often fruitless. Instead, carry cash to purchase water from the omnipresent food stalls.
Conversely, raw veggies and fruits are safe to eat as they are rinsed with purified water, not tap. This can’t be said for smaller villages, so play it safe outside of Chefchaouen and major cities.
Alcohol
Because Morocco is a majority-Muslim country and liquor licenses are hard to procure, alcohol is rarely served in restaurants, especially in Chefchaouen. One of the only places that serves alcoholic beverages is Restaurant Oum Rabie.
Payment
The country’s main currency is the Moroccan Dirham (MAD). Credit cards are accepted in most restaurants but cash is required in the majority of markets. The best ATMs are Société Générale or Barid Bank. Regardless of the ATM, know that most are notorious for “eating” cards at random. The cards are of course retrievable, but only when the bank is open. Take money out on the weekdays to play it safe as banks are closed on the weekends and one would have to wait until Monday to get the card back.
Note: Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. This is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything is charged in the local currency when in person.
Tipping
Tipping is mandatory but with the influx of western tourism, many service industry employees now expect at least a little something. Round up to the nearest dollar or with exceptional service, leave 10%.
Restrooms
The type of bathroom available varies at each establishment in Morocco. Some places provide the traditional Western toilet (that flushes), some simply have the Middle Eastern “drop toilet”, and others have both.
Regardless of the type of toilet provided, most restrooms have an attendant responsible for keeping the units clean. They are not paid by the facility owner and rely solely on gratuity from users. Always tip a couple of Dirhams to help support these people.
Attire
Morocco is far more casual than other Muslim nations, due in part to its western influence and cultural diversity. Women do not need to cover their heads or majority of their bodies unless in a mosque. They should, however, ensure shoulders and knees are covered with no midriff showing. Men can wear shorts and t-shirts unless in a mosque (then they should wear pants). Overall, although one might see westerners ignoring these rules — don’t be one of those people. Respect the culture.
Accommodations
In Morocco, most hotels listed as “four stars” are more in line with a western “three star” accommodation so don’t always expect luxury. It doesn’t have to be in Chefchaouen, but stay in a riad at least once during your travels to the country. “Riad” means “heaven” in Arabic. To be considered one, the hotel must have a garden and fountain, both historically signifying wealth.
I didn’t stay at a riad for this portion of the trip. Instead, I booked a room at Hotel Madrid, a hotel beautifully adorned with traditional mosaics — a different color theme in each room! I loved my experience despite the slow wifi outside of the main lobby.
Electrical Outlets
Morocco uses the same outlet type as those in continental Europe; the type F plug.
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HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY ONE: Explore Old Town Medina
The best way to explore a new city is to take a free walking tour. GuruWalk offers a great Free Walking Tour every day, led by a man born and raised in the village. Grab a quick coffee at Cafè Restaurant Rahmouni (which boasts amazing views of the valley) then meet the guide at Hotel Madrid.
Walk through the jaw dropping streets of the Blue City, learning about the origins of the colors. Stroll by Plaza Uta el Hammam, the heart of the Medina. (Note: Avoid eating directly in this square as the food is subpar and overpriced). Swing by the Ras Al Ma spring on the outskirts of the medina where local women flock every day to wash laundry and socialize. Grab a freshly squeezed orange juice at one of the many stands next to the rushing water before walking through the Kasbah gates towards the Ensemble D’Artisanat Complexe. Stop here for handmade artisanal goods like blankets, clothing, carpets, and leather goods. Cash only.
Spend the rest of the afternoon getting lost in the streets before enjoying the sunset from a beautiful viewpoint — the Spanish Mosque. This major landmark was crafted by the Spanish in 1928 to befriend the locals and today offers a stunning panoramic cityscape. As rewarding as the views are, getting there is a bit of a hike — but an easy one. Wander up several flights of stairs then walk uphill along a rugged dirt path for twenty minutes to reach your destination. This pastime isn’t a secret; expect scores of people to be present to bid the sun adieu — but it’s still worth it.
End the evening with dinner at Triana back on the outskirts of town. This beautiful restaurant overlooks the valley and provides views of the Spanish Mosque from below.
DAY TWO: Rif Mountain Hike
If you can’t get enough of the Blue City, wake up around 7am to walk through the Medina (Old Town) before crowds hit. Typically people don’t pack the streets until 10am, so you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy the calm and take pictures. Then grab breakfast before embarking on one of my favorite highlights in Morocco — a relatively easy hike at the base of the Rif Mountains. At over 8,000 feet high, the Rif Mountains stretch from the Mediterranean Coast to Fes. “Rif” in the ancient Berber language means “”dense forests” which emphasizes just how lush the area is — and man is it beautiful.
I typically don’t recommend hiking with a guide, but many trails here are poorly marked so it’s easy to get lost. Not to mention, a local provides a unique perspective of the area. Chefchaouen Adventures is an incredible company offering guided hikes that one can’t pass up. I went on the Half Day Rif Valley Excursion Hike and loved my experience. The eight mile hike begins near the Spanish Mosque and continues along the Rif Mountains, encompassing various stretches of slight inclines and declines. Don’t worry; it’s not that bad — only sneakers are required; not hiking boots.
Note: Although the hike is rural, you’re still in a Muslim country. Ensure proper attire is worn throughout. For women, ensure shorts cover knees and shirts cover shoulders. For men — wear a shirt at all times.
Pay attention to the flora. From August through September, it’s easy to recognize the plant that surrounds you as it’s fully in bloom. In any other month, you’d never know. Any ideas? It’s cannabis! This plant is everywhere in the area — hence why the government is considering exporting it for economic gain.
The average time for hiking is between two and a half to three hours. It ends at a rural, family-owned “gîte” or bed and breakfast in a rural village for a homemade lunch — one of the best meals I had in all of Morocco.
Back in town, take a nap or go shopping in the Medina. Later, book a spot on a food tour to learn all about delicious Moroccan cuisine. If you’d prefer to do something on your own, enjoy dinner at Bab Sour then grab a drink at one of the only bars in town, Restaurant Oum Rabie. It is closed on Mondays so plan accordingly.
The next day, head to Casablanca, Tangier, or Fes.
