Itinerary for a Weekend in Istanbul, Turkey
- Dates visited: April 2024
- Time Needed: 2–3 days
General Information
Turkey, a country of 88 million people, 98% of which are Muslim, uniquely straddles both Asia and Europe. It is rapidly becoming one of the most popular destinations in the world, hosting 42 million visitors in 2023. Istanbul, formerly known as Constantinople (the capital of the Ottoman Empire), is the largest city in the country though not the modern capital. It is home to over twenty million people and divided by a body of water called the Bosphorus Strait, with Asia to the East and Europe to the West. What’s more interesting — Istanbul is the only city in the world to span two continents! Sixty percent of residents live on the Euro side while forty percent live on the Asian corridor.
Overall, the city has numerous things to do and see over the course of two to three days. Keep in mind that this is for groups that love to walk everywhere and remain always on the go. Feel free to alter based on your interests and abilities.
- Day 1: Old Town Istanbul
- Day 2: Kadikoy & Karaköy Neighborhoods
- Day 3: Fener & Balat Neighborhoods
Communication
The main language in the country is Turkish. However, because Istanbul is a supremely touristy area, English is widely spoken so it is easy to get around. Regardless, download the Google Translate app for assistance.
Wifi
WiFi is strong and available at most hotels and restaurants. The airports, however, only offer wifi via SMS texting code which requires one to be off airplane mode to receive the login text. This is limiting for those without international phone plans.
Weather
Istanbul has hot, humid summers and cold, wet winters with occasional snow. Consider traveling between April to June or September to November to enjoy the best weather and fewest crowds.
Safety
Turkey is like many major European nations — it’s very safe. For the most part, the largest threats to tourists are pickpockets. I felt completely safe as a solo female traveler.
A couple of fun facts -
- The country has the highest number of metal detectors per capita, so prepare to go through these systems for all major landmarks, hotels, and malls. It’s just an added safety precaution and nothing to overthink.
- Police often drive luxury vehicles — and this isn’t because they want to show off. These cars once belonged to illegal crime organizations that have since been confiscated and repurposed into patrol cars. Not a bad way to reduce, reuse, and recycle!
Transportation
Traffic in Istanbul and even outside the city is some of the worst I’ve ever experienced. One million cars every day pass from the Asian to the European side. Around two million people in general change continents on a daily basis, the majority being commuters coming from Anatolia to Europe for work in the morning and returning at night. The lack of parking lots and street parking in general adds to this disarray. Drivers tend to pull over whenever they please and throw their car lights on to run into stores or pick up passengers, creating constant roadblocks. Tesla is planning on testing its self-driving cars here — GOOD LUCK! That being said, do not rent a car in Istanbul as it’s not needed and more of a hassle. Try to also avoid taxis as they can rip you off. If anything, use Uber which simply calls yellow taxis and allows one to confirm the price ahead of time. In addition, if using a car, always allot at least double the amount of time listed on Google Maps to get to your destination.
To travel within the city, skip driving and instead utilize public transportation like subway and ferries. Most stations accept Apple Pay (apart from the Marmaray Subway line to Anatolian Kadikoy), making it easy to get in and out. It’s also easy to purchase a one way ticket at stations. If planning to use public transportation often, consider purchasing an IstanbulKart Transportation Card, a pre-paid and rechargeable card granting discounted access to all metros, ferries, and buses. One card can be used for up to five passengers and is purchased at both airports or metro and tram stations.
The city has two airports that are far from each other: Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) on the Asian side and Istanbul Airport (IST) on the European side. On a good day, it takes about an hour to drive from either airport to Old Town. On a bad day, it can take three to four hours. Public transportation to these airports isn’t efficient or direct either so pick your poison and plan accordingly.
Hire Get4trip.com for airport transfers, which average around $50 USD each way per car (not per person). Ensure your name is clearly written on a sign or in the company’s paperwork upon arrival to confirm you are with the right pickup company. There are numerous cases of taxi drivers or transfer companies trying to scam tourists into getting into their cars instead of those they actually hired.
Pro-tip: If stuck in traffic once in the city but close enough to your accommodation, consider hopping out early and walking the final distance. I saved about twenty minutes by doing this.
Travel During Ramadan
Ramadan, the Islamic holy month, is the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. Its exact dates change every year. During this time, those that celebrate fast every day from sunup to sundown. In most countries, this means that many restaurants and establishments have different hours or are closed during the day. This typically carries on through Eid, the holiday immediately following Ramadan that marks the end of fasting. However, because of the huge western influence in Turkey, most major tourist destinations stay open as normal. Check ahead of time when planning.
One thing to note is that regardless if it’s Ramadan, some places are closed or have limited hours on Fridays, the Muslim holy day. Plan accordingly.
Dining
Turkey has an incredible food culture, due in part to the fact that it has a massive agriculture industry. It is the number one producer of apricots, hazelnuts, and figs in the world; and these products are incorporated into many of the local dishes. Although Istanbul has insanely delicious Turkish food, its Old Town and touristic areas lack restaurants from other cultures. Just know you might be eating the same yummy foods for a bit if sticking to these neighborhoods.
I typically don’t recommend chains, but these two are exceptions as they are highly popular in the city among locals.
- Beltur is a chain subsidized by the government in efforts to help with the economic divide. Because of this federal support, it is located in favorable spots with reasonable prices.
- Safa is famed for its traditional desserts — in particular the Turkish delight. It has locations all over the city. Stop in for a treat.
Drinking Water
Tap is generally safe to drink in Istanbul. However, public fountains are hard to come by so hauling around a refillable water bottle is often fruitless. Carry cash to purchase water from the omnipresent food stalls.
Alcohol
Because Turkey is a Muslim-majority country, alcohol is rarely served in restaurants. Confirm ahead of time if drinking is important to you. Also keep in mind that the government has imposed a 200% tax on alcohol. The saying goes, if you buy a bottle for yourself — you’re buying two more for the government! But don’t fret — it’s still affordable; just expensive for Turkish standards. A glass of wine tends to be between $10-$12 USD.
Tea, however, is a completely different story. This drink is ubiquitous. The mass production of the product grew after World War I as coffee was too expensive at the time. Today, Turks are the number one consumer of black tea in the world. They drink on average six kilos of dried tea each year, amounting to around twenty small cups per day.
Payment
The main currency is the Turkish Lira (TL). Credit cards are accepted most of the time apart from some market stalls and smaller towns. Always carry cash as a safety net. Recently, inflation has been so bad that the price of many products and activities have essentially doubled overnight. That being said, some places prefer payment in Euros or the US dollar.
PTT is one of the best ATM’s as it is government owned, so there is no commission. Seek these out.
Tipping
Tipping is not assumed but encouraged. Round up to the nearest dollar or with exceptional service, leave 10%.
Note: Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything is charged in the local currency when in person.
Restrooms
The type of bathroom available varies at each establishment in Turkey. Some places provide the traditional Western toilet (that flushes), some simply have the Middle Eastern “drop toilet”, and others have both. Istanbul typically offers Western toilets.
Attire
Turkey is far more casual than other Muslim-majority nations, due in part to its large western influence and cultural diversity. Women do not need to cover their heads or majority of their bodies unless in a mosque. They should, however, ensure shoulders and knees are covered with no midriff showing. Men can wear shorts and t-shirts unless in a mosque (then they should wear pants). Overall, although one might see westerners ignoring these rules — don’t be one of those people. Respect the culture.
Accommodations
Istanbul is comprised of thirty-nine districts. The most popular districts on the European side are Sultanahmet (Old Town), Karaköy (hip and trendy areas across the Galata Bridge), and Fener and Balat (both part of the Jewish Quarter). On the Asian/Anatolian side, Kadikoy is the hotspot.
That being said, the two most coveted neighborhoods to stay in are Sultanahmet and Karaköy. I stayed in Sultanahmet at Second Home Hostel and although I liked the place itself, the area was far too touristy and overpriced. If I could do it again, I’d stay in Karaköy which is cuter, more authentic, and still within walking distance to main attractions.
Electrical Outlets
Turkey uses the same outlet type as those in continental Europe; the type F plug.
Cats
Yes, cats deserve an entire category to themselves. These felines have been omnipresent since Roman times when households kept them to kill vermin. They have since rapidly populated and can be found EVERYWHERE! Even though most live on the street, locals go out of their way to feed and protect them. Don’t be surprised if you see a handful of adorable kittens running around as well.
Knockoff Designer Products
After China, Turkey has the largest designer knockoff business in the world due to its lenient laws. Before spending money on a designer item, do your research to confirm it’s legitimate.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY ONE: Old Town Istanbul
One cannot visit Istanbul without exploring its ancient past in Sultanahmet, the Old Town. It’s home to numerous UNESCO sites and some of the most exquisite works of architecture in the country, among them the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, and Topkapi Palace. Because these destinations are so famous, crowds swarm — especially in summer — so it’s worth it to book “skip the line” tickets for these if interested in exploring inside. I’d also recommend visiting with a guide for the Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, and Topkapi Palace (if you decide to visit here) so you have a better understanding of what you’re looking at.
Book a morning tour with Royal Guru Tours to explore three of the famous landmarks. Start at the Blue Mosque, referred to by locals as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, an Ottoman-era site named for the blue hand-painted tiles that cover the inside. Women must wear a scarf over their heads with their knees and shoulders completely covered, so arrive prepared or purchase a cover near the entrance for a small fee. Spend an hour exploring the spectacle’s grandeur.
Note: Entry into the mosque is allowed for non-Muslims daily apart from the five daily prayer times and noontime prayers on Fridays (the Islamic holy day). Consequently, tours on Fridays are only available at 1pm.
Next head to the Basilica Cistern, a large underground area built in the sixth century to supply water to all of Constantinople. At first I thought this was going to be a waste of time as I’m not very interested in architecture or water supply methods. However, this cistern is gorgeous with over 336 columns, the capacity to hold 100,000 tons of water, eerie light displays, and an oddly calming atmosphere. It’s worth the thirty minute walk through.
End the tour outside the Hagia Sophia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the guide will provide a quick synopsis of the structure. Once the tour finishes, enter the landmark on your own. Purchase an all day “skip the line” ticket that provides an audio guide app as well as access into the mosque anytime between 9am-7pm. Download the app ahead of time and bring your own headphones as the site offers no Wifi or earbud rental. Also keep in mind that this “skip the line” title is deceiving as it applies to only the ticket line; not the security line. No tours allow one to run to the front of the security line. Don’t wait to buy tickets at the door as lines tend to be extremely long. In addition, know that the security line can take up to an hour on peak season. I got lucky and only waited fifteen minutes; but you never know. Like in the Blue Mosque, women must cover their heads, shoulders, and knees here.
The Hagia Sophia has a unique history spanning over 1,500 years. It was initially built as a Byzantine church and was later converted into a mosque after the fall of Constantinople. Now, it is both a mosque and public museum. Spend an hour or so learning more about the famous building.
If you’re not exhausted by now and interested in palaces, grab lunch then walk down the street to Topkapi Palace, the former administrative center of the Ottoman Empire and home to the sultan and two thousand other people in its prime. Tours of this landmark last roughly one to two hours depending on if it includes the Harem, the private residences of the dynasty. I did a tour with Walks in Europe and truthfully, was a bit bored with this part as it’s a huge, somewhat repetitive complex. I’d instead recommend taking time to walk around the grounds which are free. Keep in mind that the palace is closed on Tuesdays.
The two main marketplaces in Old Town are the Egyptian Spice Bazaar and Grand Bazaar. Built in 1664, the Spice Bazaar sells not only spices but also teas, dried fruits, and nuts among many things. It’s open seven days a week. With over 3,000 shops, the Grand Bazaar is the oldest and largest covered bazaar in the world and is closed on Sundays. These markets sound appealing from a bird’s eye, but I’d recommend skipping them. They’re overflowing with tourists, which produce tight crowds, chaos, and pickpockets. If you don’t mind this, then add them to the itinerary after visiting the palace.
Overall, this is a lot of time to dedicate to ancient structures. If seeing the palace and/or bazaars are important, know that you can also make time to see them on the third day after exploring the Jewish Quarters or participate in a different full day tour of landmarks with Walks in Europe. If entering these hotspots in general doesn’t interest you, consider a free walking tour around Old Town instead that will touch upon these structures and other many significant aspects of the area.
Grab dinner at Salute Pub and Restaurant (one of few places in Old Town that sells alcohol!) then finish the night off with a show at Hodjapasha Performing Arts Center. The center offers two one-hour performance options. The first is a Whirling Dervish show, a symbolic spiritual practice of meditation occuring daily at 7pm. The second is the Rhythm of the Dance show which depicts numerous traditional Turkish dances and occurs every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 8:30pm. I attended the Whirling Dervish show and loved it but heard that the Rhythm of the Dance show is even better as it has more varied performances. The theater itself offers great seats no matter where you end up, but the earlier that tickets are purchased, the better the assigned seat will be. Alcohol is not available at either performance.
DAY TWO: Kadikoy & Karaköy Neighborhoods
Today is dedicated to exploring a different side of Istanbul. Begin with a free walking tour of Kadikoy, a vibrant district on the Asian or Anatolian side of the city known for its diverse population, ancient past, and increasing modernity. It’s so large that it is split up into numerous neighborhoods. Meet the guide on the Eminönü — Üsküdar Ferry Pier (on the Euro side) and hop on your first ferry ride of the city. Travel across the Golden Horn, a waterway on the Bosphorus named for its horn-like shape, before landing on a different continent. Explore the neighborhood of Üsküdar, the “balcony of Istanbul” as well as the former Jewish quarter, Kuzguncuk.
Note: This tour does not occur every day, so look at the schedule ahead of time.
Once the tour is over, you have two options. Visit a historic hammam or head to Moda, another important neighborhood in Kadikoy home to the Fish Market (Balık Pazarı). Or — do both!
A hammam is a traditional Turkish bath house and communal gathering space dating back to the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. Residents used these chambers to engage in a series of bathing rituals while also catching up with friends. They are separated by gender — which is good considering bathing tops are typically discouraged from being worn inside.
Istanbul is overflowing with hammams of all types, qualities, and prices. Consider visiting one on the Asian side as they are far cheaper. Per the recommendation of my local guide, I visited Bayanlar Sifa Hamami in Üsküdar and paid only $22 USD for an hour-long experience. I wouldn’t categorize the hour as relaxing, but it was VERY traditional! I was asked to remove everything but my bathing suit bottom before being draped in a towel and ushered into an area with a sauna and steam room for which I could enjoy as long as I wanted. Then a female attendant met me to begin the scrub — and man, was that intense. Using a coarse mitt called a “kese”, she firmly rubbed all over to remove dead skin cells, dirt, and oil while I laid on a heated stone bench. Parts of this were relaxing while other parts were a bit uncomfortable. She repeated this again with a natural coffee scrub that I paid extra for which smelt delicious. The package also included a short body and scalp massage as well as a full body and hair wash. Although it was a bit harsh at times, I was glad I experienced the traditional hammam. If looking for a more Westernized experience, consider visiting a spa on the European side that caters to tourists. Çemberlitaş Hamamı, located in Old Town, comes highly recommended but runs at around $70 USD for a similar but slightly more “calming” treatment.
After, take the metro two stops to Söğütlüçeşme in the Moda neighborhood of Kadikoy. Moda borders the Sea of Marmara and encompasses a seaside walkway with breathtaking ocean views. Visit the life size Bull Statue at the intersection of six roads, an Anatolian cultural landmark. Walk along the Tellalzade Sokak, the “Antique Dealers” street filled with copious antique shops. If in need of a pick me up, stop at the adorable Archive Cafe for a coffee and people watching. Then walk through the loud and interesting Fish Market (Balık Pazarı). With its unique offerings, it’s a sight to behold. Enjoy a promenade down the Moda coastal walkway or hop back on the ferry to return to the European side of the city.
Now it’s time to explore Karaköy — the cosmopolitan neighborhood across the Galata Bridge from Old Town that I recommend staying in. This area was once a bustling Ottoman Empire trade hub and is now a hotspot for local fishermen, trendy bars, and cute shops. Soak in the sea by strolling along the coastal walkway that begins at the Karaköy Pier and continues to the Ataturk Bridge. Stop for a grilled fish sandwich, the neighborhood’s custom street food dish sourced directly from the adjacent sea.
Saunter through the French Passageway, a classic sidestreet named after the presence of French businessmen that occupied the area in the 19th and 20th centuries. Then bee-line it to family-owned Güllüoğlu Baklava, a dessert shop with the title of the world’s first baklava family. The franchise is so favored that it now has numerous shops within the neighborhood. And truly — it sells some of the best sweets I have ever tasted — so don’t miss this. Then pop to Hoca Tahsin Street, a cute thoroughfare with a popular umbrella skyline, coffee shops, and bars.
After, amble towards the Galata Tower, formerly named the “Tower of Christ.” Built in 1348, it was previously used for numerous functions including a prison, observatory, and gallery. Typically visitors can walk the 146 stairs to access a 360-degree viewing deck but as of the spring 2024, the tower is closed for construction. Admire the structure from below instead. Then stride to the historic Kamondo Stairs, a Neo-Baroque style landmark representing Istanbul’s rich heritage. The steps were commissioned in the 19th century by an affluent Jewish banking family to connect the residential area to the waterfront — and allegedly to make it easier for their children to walk to school. End the evening with dinner at either Mürver Restaurant or Moise Karaköy.
DAY THREE: Fener & Balat Neighborhoods
The final day in Istanbul is dedicated to exploring the Fatih district — specifically its two main neighborhoods of Fener and Balat. Both are famous for their ubiquitous three-story colored houses, antique shops, and cat-friendly cafes, but differ based on their historic occupants. Fener was once home to Greek Orthodox citizens while Balat encompassed the Jewish and Armenian communities. I’m a big tour person, so I recommend taking the free walking tour of the area to learn more. If this isn’t your speed, simply spend time wandering through the narrow streets. Highlights include the St. Stephen’s Orthodox Church and the Ferruh Kethuda Mosque but the real fun is just getting lost in the fray.
Consider flying out tonight or spending the evening floating down the Bosphorus Strait on a dinner cruise.
HEADING TO CAPPADOCIA?
Check out my guide on the region here!
