Itinerary for Three Days in Chişinău, Moldova
- Dates visited: July 2024
- Time Needed: 3 days, 4 nights
General Information
Moldova, a nation of over 2.5 million people, is the least visited country in Europe that merits more clout than it’s received. It’s nestled between Ukraine and Romania with fields of sunflowers, bustling city streets, and a unique but dark history. Although it lacks mountains and large bodies of water that typically lure tourists, it has many other impressive features that make it worthwhile like wineries, vast monastery complexes (over 97% of the population is Orthodox), and ancient fortresses.
The capital, Chişinău (pronounced “keesh-in-now”) is a city of over one million people. It’s often referred to as the “City of White Stone” due to its historic white limestone buildings which have hygienic properties that cleanse and deodorize the air. Located on seven hills, it’s also considered one of the greenest cities in Europe, overflowing with gorgeous parks and community spaces. In addition, the city offers a vibrant arts scene, with numerous theaters, concerts, and events occurring year round that blend history and culture.
In summation, Chişinău has numerous things to do and see over the course of three days. Keep in mind that this guide is for groups that love to walk everywhere and remain always on the go. Feel free to alter based on your interests and abilities.
- Day One: Chişinău
- Day Two: Highlights of Moldova Tour
- Day Three: Transnistria Tour
Note: Citizens are interchangeably referred to as “Moldovan” or “Moldovian” so when you hear it — know there is no difference.
Communication
As of 2023, the nation’s official language is Romanian. Moldovan is also spoken, which is merely a Romanian dialect — similar to the differences between “British” English and “American” English. Many citizens also speak Russian and Ukrainian. English is spoken frequently in Chişinău as well in the touristy neighborhoods so it’s relatively easy to get around.
Note: The Romanian word for “thank you” is “mulțumesc.” This is hard to say and remember so people also use “merci.” Stick to that to make it easier.
Wifi
WiFi is available and strong at most hotels and establishments.
Weather
Moldova has a moderate climate, with long and warm summers averaging 80°F and mild winters averaging 30°F. The best time to visit is when temperatures are relatively mild from September through November and April through May.
Safety
Moldova (and specifically Chişinău!) is incredibly safe. Solo females can walk alone at night without concern. The only place to keep an eye on your bag is in the Central Market and in busy areas for fear of pickpockets — a problem many European countries deal with.
It is worth noting that although Moldova is on the border with Ukraine and not part of NATO, the threat of a Russian invasion is currently low. In fact, it’s listed on the US travel website as a Level Two Travel Advisory which is on par with other safe nations like Spain and Italy. Don’t be afraid. This country is secure and ready to be explored!
Transportation
The Chişinău International Airport airport is a small, one terminal transportation hub and the only public airport in the country. The best way to get from the airport to downtown, a drive time of thirty minutes, is by using the hip.car, Letz, or Yandex-Go apps or by pre-booking transportation through your hotel. It’s affordable and easy. Taxis tend to rip off foreigners and are cash only so avoid them.
Once in the city, traffic is inevitable. Many streets are narrow, worn down, Soviet era roads that are in the process of getting upgraded — but of course, this causes traffic delays. This problem should calm down once the roads are improved in the next several years.
I tend to walk everywhere in small cities and in Chişinău, it’s safe and easy to do so. However, if you need a break, the bus system is easy and convenient. Tickets (cash only) can be purchased inside the vehicle. It is the same price no matter the distance.
Dining
Restaurant recommendations are listed below:
Drinking Water
Tap water is technically potable but locals prefer to run it through a filter to make it taste better. I didn’t notice a difference between filtered and unfiltered but did as the locals do to play it safe. Public fountains aren’t ubiquitously located so purchase water from the omnipresent convenience stores instead of lugging a refillable bottle around.
Payment
Moldova is one of the cheapest (if not THE cheapest) country to visit in Europe. A couple dollars gets you far! The country’s main currency is the Leu (MDL) and Euros are not accepted in most locations. One of the best places to exchange money is at the airport as it has favorable rates with no commissions. ATMs are also available all over the city. Most establishments accept credit cards except taxis and market stalls, so carry some cash to play it safe.
Note: Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. This is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything is charged in the local currency when in person.
Tipping
Tipping is not mandatory. If feeling obliged, round up to the nearest dollar or with exceptional service, leave 10%.
Accommodations
I stayed at the Hostel Amazing Ionika and although it had a great location, I wouldn’t recommend it due to unfavorable cleanliness and a mediocre atmosphere. Look for accommodations in the city center as it’s closest to everything.
Electrical Outlets
Moldova uses the same outlet type as those in continental Europe; the type F plug.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY ONE: Chişinău
The best way to explore the city is by taking a walking tour. Because Chişinău isn’t a popular tourist destination, few tours exist. Free Tour Chişinău offers free two-hour excursions, run based on request and guide availability. Unfortunately they weren’t available when I was so I booked one of the only other options — a private Viator tour with a local, Natalia. This turned out to be a great idea and I couldn’t recommend her more. Reserve in advance as she is often booked.
Hack: Message Natalia directly to avoid Viator fees. Her Whatsapp number is +373 795 78 217.
Natalia will first pick you up in her car at your accommodation then bring you to the Eternal Flame Monument; a complex dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died fighting against the Germans in World War II. It is the only remaining Soviet structure in the country. It’s difficult to get to via public transportation or walking, hence Natalia’s door to door service.
Hop back in the vehicle to drive less than ten minutes to the Ciuflea Monastery, the city’s oldest, before parking and walking the rest of the tour. Visit the Military History Museum, a former private memorabilia collection highlighting different conflicts impacting Moldova, including WWII, the Transnistria War, and the 1970’s Afghan War. In truth, it’s only worth visiting with a guide as most signs are in Romanian (or have no labels at all) and exhibits are dated and musty.
Moldova was once known as the “Garden of the Soviet Union” due to its climate that allows for the production of flavorsome fruits and vegetables. See the freshness of the produce yourself as you walk next through the Piata Centrala (Central Market). This marketplace is also known for its cheeses, meats, and random trinkets. Additionally, it’s one of the few places where wearing your backpack on the front of your body is recommended as pickpockets frequent this area. Bring cash as most shops don’t accept cards. And although the site says it closes at 6pm, most stalls start to break down at 4pm so arrive early.
The tour concludes near two major parks — Stefan cel Mare Park and Cathedral Park. Although both are beautiful, the latter is my favorite as it features a gorgeous tree-lined area frequented by locals. Grab a pastry and coffee at the picturesque Parisian Bonjour Cafe in the park’s center or enjoy a larger meal at the Teatrul Gastronomic, a modern and international food hall down the street.
Note: Book Natalia’s tour for any day but Monday as both the Military Museum and Central Market are closed then.
Instead of going to the two other main museums in the city — the National History Museum and the Pushkin House; skip them. They’re dated, mundane, and don’t offer much English. If you’re in the mood to keep walking, head instead to Valea Morilor Lake. It was dug in the 1950’s by the local youth Communist Party to be the city’s main recreational area. However, after years of pollution, the fish died and the area became unsafe to swim in. In efforts to remove dangerous chemicals detected inside the water, the city drained it in 2006 but quickly ran out of money to finish the rehabilitation project. As a result, the area sat as a dry wasteland for years. Fast forward to 2011 when the government finally rebuilt and refilled it to become what is now Chişinău’s pride and joy. Today, citizens can rent kayaks, walk around the perimeter, and enjoy numerous exhibitions and events.
End with dinner at Sălcioara, a favored haunt featuring traditional Moldovan dishes.
DAY TWO: Highlights of Moldova Tour
Chişinău is small so it’s easy to see most sights in a day. That’s why the next two days are dedicated to seeing the countryside. Book the Highlights of Moldova Tour to experience a new landscape. Do this instead of renting a car as the guide provides a ton of information you wouldn’t necessarily receive if traveling on your own.
Begin with an hour drive surrounded by sunflowers and small villages before stopping at the Curchi Monastery, an 18th century religious site with beautifully landscaped grounds. Continue on to the Old Orhei Archeological Complex and the Orthodox Cave Monastery. This is an incredible structure built into the side of a cliff that showcases former sleeping rooms for monks and is manned by the religious leaders to this day. Continue along a path overlooking the Orhei Valley that leads to a small village. If you’re lucky, a Moldovan woman will be selling homemade wine in front of her house. It’s cheap and delicious — buy some!
Stop at a local restaurant for lunch before spending the remaining two hours at the Cricova Winery, the world’s largest underground winery. It spans over 62 miles and is located 330 feet beneath the earth’s surface. This is one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen and a must-do while in Moldova.
To get that far down, hop aboard a small openair train guiding visitors through the dark labyrinth. Bring a jacket as it gets very chilly! I felt like I was at Harry Potter’s Gringot’s Bank, flying through the tunnels as if I was going down to my wizard savings vault. Moldova used to produce up to 90% of the Soviet Union’s wine supply — and it’s clear with the vastness of this place. Learn about the history of the winery and why these cold conditions are great for growing grapes. At the end, pay extra to try three (almost) full glasses of wine paired with light snacks.
Head back to the city just in time for dinner at the Kalamaki Greek Tavern.
DAY THREE: Transnistria Tour
The final day is reserved for a special trip to Transnistria, a breakaway state unrecognized by the majority of the world as its own nation. According to Moldova, it is Moldovan. Transnistrian residents, however, consider themselves to be from a completely separate country and because of it enlist their own currency, passport, and government.
I didn’t do this trip as I initially read online (specifically on the US Government’s website) that this region is unsafe for American tourists due to the ongoing conflict with Russia. (Transnistria is overwhelmingly pro-Russian and borders Ukraine). It was also the subject of an intense two year war in the 90’s with Moldova over its sovereignty. However, after talking to local guides that visit multiple times a week, I learned that the area is in fact safe to enter. Keep in mind that this could change but as of July 2024 the unrecognized country is completely safe for American tourists (and tourists in general).
Spend the day exploring the “nation’s” two main cities, Bender and Tiraspol, with one of several tour agencies. Get Your Guide offers numerous options or you could message Natalia, the walking tour guide, to book directly through her with fewer fees. As a reminder, her Whatsapp number is +373 795 78 217.
For the final dinner in Chişinău, enjoy more Moldovan food at favored local chain La Placinte. The city has several locations, all highly recommended.
