Itinerary for a long weekend in Stockholm, Sweden
- Dates visited: May 2022
- Time Needed: 3 days, 4 nights
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: Gamla Stan (Old Town), Norrmalm, Sodermalm
General Information
Home to the famous pop band ABBA and furniture giant IKEA, Stockholm is the second most visited Nordic country. Built across fourteen islands, the city is known as Europe’s first “green” capital and boasts the longest life expectancy on the continent. “Fika”, the afternoon tradition of indulging in a coffee and pastry break, might also be contributing to the high life expectancy. Be sure to participate in this ritual during your time in Sweden.
This guide outlines a possible itinerary for a long weekend in the city. Below is a quick overview of the proposal:
- Day 1: Walking tour, Gamla Stan, Sodermalm
- Day 2: Ferry to Archipelago
- Day 3: Explore the city more or take a day trip
Communication
Most US phone companies do not enable free European service. Check with your phone company before leaving to confirm your plan’s allowance.
Payment
Debit/Credit Cards are widely accepted everywhere. I never used cash. No need to take out any Swedish kronor (SEK), but if you feel so inclined, visit your local bank before you leave to get the best conversion rates.
It is important to note that Sweden (along with all of the Nordic countries) is an expensive country to visit, so plan to spend more here than other places in mainland Europe.
Weather
Stockholm experiences mild annual temperatures, with lows in the winter around 30 degrees Fahrenheit and highs in summer around 70 degrees. Its sunlight hours, however, are more interesting. During the winter, the sun rises around 9am and sets just after 3pm, making it a long, dark span of months. The summer is drastically (and thankfully) different, with the city averaging around nineteen hours of sunlight per day. Unless you plan to visit up north for winter activities, visit Stockholm from May through September for ideal temperatures and light.
Places to stay
The city offers numerous hotel, Airbnb, and hostel accommodations based on price. STF af Chapman & Skeppsholmen Hostel is a budget friendly, clean hostel on a quieter island conveniently in between Gamla Stan and Djurgården (the museum island, as I affectionately call it). Instead of walking (which is still very convenient), take the Skeppsholmen ferry that leaves every twenty minutes to visit main points of interest.
Gamla Stan, the old town section of the city, is another great area to stay in. The Collector’s Lady Hamilton Hotel in this neighborhood is a Victorian-style hotel with modern updates. In addition, Hotel Tegnerlunden is an affordable option in the Norrmalm District, a busy downtown neighborhood home to many iconic landmarks.
Traveling around
To get from the Arlanda Airport to downtown (near Gamla Stan), skip Uber and take the Arlanda Express. Purchase a ticket at the airport for $27 USD one way and arrive at the Stockholm City stop within twenty minutes. The ride includes WiFi and clean bathrooms. A walk to Gamla Stan from there takes another ten minutes.
Once in the city, utilize the SL ferries for an easy and quick system that locals and tourists alike enjoy. Purchase a ticket at every ferry station for less than $2 USD one way. Walking between each island via bridges tends to take time, so this is a better option, especially when going from Gamla Stan to Djurgården.
We got lazy and ended up Ubering to further neighborhoods like Sodermalm from our hostel (with prices averaging that of mainstream US cities). However, we wish we had taken advantage of the metro system. Clean and accessible, it holds the title of the “world’s longest art gallery” so I’m kicking myself for skipping it.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME
DAY ONE: Walking tour, Gamla Stan, Sodermalm
Start your day with fresh squeezed orange juice and a deliciously lite breakfast at Café Schweizer in old town Gamla Stan. This neighborhood is one of the best preserved historic districts in Europe, so take your time sipping coffee while wandering the cobblestone streets in the early morning.
Next, experience a free walking tour to better understand the history of Gamla Stan. The guide will point out key points of interest such as the Stockholm Royal Palace, Stora Nygatan (a lively street with music), and the Swedish Parliament where environmental activist Greta Thunberg began her global protests. If time permits post-tour, stop by Tasty America for a good laugh at a large collection of the over-processed foods popular in the United States. This grocery store was both intriguing and embarrassing, as it really outlines the absurdity of American food culture.
For lunch, pop over to Restaurant Tradition to taste traditional Swedish and Nordic fare. The Hairy Pig, a pub, is another great option for good food and beer. Try the Swedish Meatballs — you won’t regret it. If not quite hungry yet, take the ferry from Gamla Stan to Djurgården and head straight to one of the most popular museums on the island, the Vasa Museum.
At only $18 USD/adult, this is arguably one of the coolest museums I’ve ever been to. Vasa displays a well preserved warship from 1628 that sank twenty minutes into its maiden voyage, drowning all but thirty people out of its 300 passengers. It took 333 years for the Swedes to retrieve the ship from the bottom of the harbor. Visitors can now view the ship from four different stories, along with numerous artifacts and skeletons from the wreckage. The experience typically takes one hour. Do not miss this.
Stockholm has numerous other museums scattered throughout Djurgården and the city in general that you could hit after Vasa. The Viking Museum showcases 9th century Viking ships and artifacts along with a Disneyworld-like Viking ride. The ABBA Museum, a well marketed but somewhat superficial excursion, outlines the rise and success of the famous band. The Nobel Prize Museum highlights key Nobel prizes and laureates. The one museum I would NOT recommend, however, is the Skansen Museum. Although it is the world’s oldest open air museum and is supposed to showcase Sweden pre-industrial era, it completely lacks signage and guides to teach and clarify what you’re looking at. Skip this.
If you plan on visiting several museums, consider purchasing the All-Inclusive Stockholm Pass which will give you discounts and ‘free’ access to many city landmarks and galleries.
End the evening with dinner at Restaurang Kryp In back in Gamla Stan for more traditional Swedish fare and a great espresso martini. Then, head to Winstrom’s Pub or O’Connell’s Irish Pub for drinks and live music.
DAY TWO: Ferry to Archipelago
Stockholm is home to a massive archipelago with over 24,000 islands. These island chains create plenty of options for fun day trips. Stora Fjäderholmarna, Grinda, and Vaxholm are all small islands within a 90 minute boat ride from the main city center.
I had a really hard time determining which island to visit. Stora Fjäderholmarna is charming and only thirty minutes by boat, but does not allow one to truly experience life deep in the archipelago. Grinda takes approximately 90 minutes and has gorgeous views with many adventure sports to take part in, including kayaking and swimming. I’m a bit regretful that we didn’t stop here. The island we did select, however, was Vaxholm and I am both happy and disappointed in our choice.
Considered the capital of the archipelago, Vaxholm is known for idyllic roads and quaint fisherman cottages. To get there, choose from one of two main ferries. The cheapest option utilizes the public ferry, Waxholmsbolaget. Located next to the Grand Hotel and operating year round, the ferry does not allow pre-purchasing tickets so simply purchase on arrival. The trip lasts an hour or so.
The second option, and the one we selected, involves the Cinderella ferry and a history tour. With a restaurant, bar, and guided cruise, this ferry is a bit nicer and lasts approximately 90 minutes each way. It leaves from a different location (Strandvägen berth no 14) and only runs from May through September. If planning to visit Vaxholm and appreciate history, choose this option.
One can also drive or bus to the town as there is a small bridge connecting it to the mainland — but you’d be remiss to skip exploring the archipelago via water.
On land, explore the little town for an hour or two with its boutiques and waterfront parks, especially Johannesbergsparken. When ready for food, indulge in a tasty burger on the docks at Winbergs Kök & Bar or down the road at Vaxholms Hembygdsgårds Café. The latter was closed when we visited, but we stopped by to sit on the picnic tables and enjoy the view. I would have loved to eat here — the location was idyllic and the menu looked delicious.
If you have time, take a quick water taxi to the Vaxholm Fortress Museum, a site that was once the Citadel for Swedish defense in the 19th century.
My day trip to Vaxholm was great, though I wonder what it would have been like to explore a different island with perhaps more to do. The tour allowed for four or five hours on the island, which was too much for what the island offered for activities. I would have preferred to take the Cinderella ferry there for the history and the public ferry home so we could have returned faster and on our own time.
Alternatively, discover additional island tours through Get Your Guide or simply get out on the water with a RIB tour.
Once back in Stockholm, spend the rest of the evening exploring Norrmalm, a modernized downtown neighborhood next to Gamla Stan. Be sure to walk through Kungsträdgården, the city’s oldest park, and Hötorgshallen, a local food market. Grab drinks at the Lydmar Hotel outdoor pop up bar, then dine alongside locals at Restaurant 1889 Fast Fine Pizza. Known for its ritzy decor yet laid back atmosphere, this restaurant simplifies ordering with a QR barcode and no true waitstaff.
DAY THREE: Explore
Spend the last day in Stockholm choosing from a handful of excursions:
- Explore the museums you have not gotten a chance to visit yet
- Visit Drottningholm Palace — The current private residence of Swedish royals as well as a Unesco World Heritage site, Drottningholm Palace is a quick day trip. Take a twenty minute Uber or a forty minute combination of metro and bus routes. Purchase a guided tour ticket of the palace to better understand the history, intricate rooms, and luscious gardens.
- Uppsala — A town known for having one of the oldest universities in Europe, Uppsala is a charming little village thirty minutes via train from Stockholm. Spend the day wandering through its parks, coffee shops, and famous Uppsala Castle.
Regardless of what you decide, enjoy the afternoon/evening in Sodermalm, the “Brooklyn” of Stockholm. Visit Söderhallarna, a modern shopping hall with gourmet food stalls and restaurants, or try Mosebacketerrassen, a beer hall with gorgeous views of Stockholm’s skyline. Skinnarviksparken, a park with hills overlooking the city, is another great place for views and people watching. For a casual dinner, head to gastro-pub Honey Honey. We visited during the Eurovision competition and had a great time watching countries compete while chowing down on pork schnitzel and Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce. Later, stop by Häktet for lively drinks with a younger crowd.
After four nights in Stockholm, my next stop was Helsinki, Finland. I purchased a one way flight for $200 USD that was quick and easy. However, I wish I had taken the overnight ferry with either Viking Line or Tallink Silja that would have allowed me to see more of the archipelago and saved the cost of a hotel for a night.
For suggestions on nearby Helsinki, Finland, visit my post here.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE PER NEIGHBORHOOD
Gamla Stan
- Café Schweizer — breakfast
- Restaurang Kryp In — dinner
- Restaurant Tradition — dinner
- O’Connells Irish Pub — live music, drinks
- Stampen Jazz & Rhythm n’ Blues Pub — live music, drinks
- The Hairy Pig — dinner, drinks
- The Liffey — live music, drinks
- Wirstroms Pub — live music, drinks
Norrmalm
- Hötorgshallen — food market
- Restaurant 1889 Fast Fine Pizza — lunch/dinner
- Lydmar Hotel — drinks
Sodermalm
- Mosebacketerrassen — beer hall
- Söderhallarna — food hall
- Honey Honey — dinner/drinks
- Häktet — drinks
Vaxholm
- Hembygdsgårds Café — breakfast/lunch
- Winbergs Kök & Bar — lunch
