Top things to do in Roatan, Honduras

The Anonymous Traveler
17 min readApr 15, 2023

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  • Dates visited: April 2023
  • Time Needed: Long weekend to one week
  • Neighborhoods to stay in: West End, West Bay, Sandy Bay

General Information

Roatan is an incredible island oasis thirty-five miles off the coast of mainland Honduras with its own culture, community, and tradition. Part of the Caribbean, it is often foolishly overlooked by tourists who prefer the more well known islands like Jamaica and the Bahamas or more Central-American areas like Guatemala.

It is thirty-six miles long, five miles wide, and covered with white sand beaches and crystal clear waters. The island feels far more part of the Caribbean than it does Central America.

Roatan has come a long way since the time of the pirates in the 17th century. At one point, it was home to over 10,000 buccaneers including the infamous Blackbeard and Henry Morgan. Fast forward to the 70’s and 80’s, a completely different era locally referred to as the “cowboy days.” During this time period, the island had no paved roads or electricity so citizens traveled on horseback. It wasn’t until the 90’s when a cruise ship dock was built that the island began to grow in fame and technology.

Today, Roatan is known for its gorgeous reef that surrounds the entire island, making it one of the best places to snorkel and dive. It is one of the cheapest places in the world to get certified for diving so it is full of dive shops and schools well practiced in the art. Most people argue that the main reason to visit the island is to dive. However, as a non-diver, I disagree. There is so much to do for folks outside of diving that make this place a hidden gem.

It has two cruise ports — one solely for Carnival and the other for famous companies like Royal Caribbean and Norwegian Cruise Line. Unfortunately, this makes the island a bit more Americanized than I originally expected. Nonetheless, it’s still worth a visit!

Explore for at least a long weekend if not a week depending on the amount of relaxing and activities you like to do. Those that travel in on a cruise ship stop by for less than a day and miss out on its beauty. Avoid this. Stay for a bit to see how spectacular this place really is. Plus you’ll get to enjoy the area for sunset after the chaotic cruise ships leave, when everything comes alive with locals and the real fun begins.

West End

Communication

Because Roatan was once a British colony, its main language is English. In fact, locals are often insulted if approached speaking Spanish first (even though it is frequently spoken as mainland Hondurans speak primarily Spanish). Essentially, this assumes that you think they’re from the mainland, not the island itself — and they hate the comparison. So as a rule of thumb — start with English and go from there.

Their English can sometimes be hard to understand as they have their own slang, reminiscent of Jamaican slang. If confused, locals will often slow down and repeat so it’s easier to comprehend.

Wifi

Wifi and cell signal are readily available across the island and on boats close to shore. The issue lies in construction power outages. Because Roatan has rapidly growing infrastructure, it experiences numerous planned and unplanned power outages that disrupt wifi. Sometimes these outages last all day. If wifi is important to you especially for working purposes, ensure wherever you are staying has a backup generator. Even better — work from West End’s only coworking space, Beach Desk. For $15 USD a day or $40 USD for three days, receive access to incredible wifi (with a backup generator!), private phone booths, ample work space, and gorgeous water views.

Payment

Honduras has its own currency, the Lempira (HNL) but also equally accepts the US dollar. Debit/credit cards are accepted approximately 50% of the time so it is best to always carry cash just in case. Other frequently accepted forms of payment are Venmo, Zelle, PayPal, and Cash App.

Ensure that the cash you do have is in fairly good condition. Rips, tears, crumpled bills, and markings are often not accepted, even at low key roadside stands. I annoyingly came home with several twenty dollar bills that would have been considered perfectly acceptable in the States but were deemed useless in Honduras.

Most ATMs are not to be trusted, especially in the West End where they’re known for eating debit cards. So much so that this was the first thing our Airbnb host told us when we got off the plane. Visit your local bank before leaving your home country to receive the best exchange rates and to stock up on cash ahead of time. If in a pinch, visit one of the only reliable places — the PetroSun gas station on the outskirts of the West End. It is about a five minute walk from the main road and has two ATMs. Go on an early weekday morning when the ATMs are refilled. We visited on a weekend and it was empty. The Infinity Bay Resort has an ATM in the lobby that is also reliable if looking for somewhere in the West Bay.

Another safe option is to go to one of the many places with “cash back” signs in their window, like the Roa Market in the West End. These places are far more trustworthy.

Roa Market for cash back

Overall the island is not as cheap as I expected it to be, considering mainland Honduras is very affordable. Prices at restaurants and bars have great happy hour deals but offer similar “normal hour” prices to that of some smaller cities in the United States. It’s very comparable to the rest of the Caribbean and not Central America.

Weather

Temperatures stay relatively the same year round, between 80°F to 90°F. The rainy season runs from October through January, with December and January as its wettest months. Luckily, Roatan is far outside the Hurricane Zone so it rarely experiences intense storms. In fact, a hurricane typically happens once every thirty years. The best overall time to visit the island is February through August during the dry season.

Locals enjoying the watering holes, as seen on our guided island tour (described further down)

Safety

Unlike mainland Honduras that historically is unsafe in most places, Roatan is a completely safe island paradise, even at night. It virtually has no crime. As described by our local tour guide, anyone that breaks the law is thrown in the island jail where food and water must be provided by relatives on the outside. They jam as many people into each stall as possible and do not allow bathroom breaks, so those arrested must go on the floor in the cell. The prison on the mainland, Danli Prison, is even worse and has been featured on Netflix’s “Inside The World’s Toughest Prisons”. These harsh conditions keep law-breakers at bay.

To further ensure safety, police hold random checkpoints across the island. Don’t be afraid — these are very common and low key. Cops randomly pull cars over to check for a proper license and registration and to confirm the driver (and only the driver) has their seatbelt on and is not driving drunk. Harsh fines are distributed to those that don’t disobey the law.

Conversely, the island has no stop lights and stop signs are considered “gentle suggestions” that even the police don’t follow. It’s interesting to see where regulations are and are not enforced!

Mosquitos

Mosquitos are present on the island but are far more manageable than bugs on other Caribbean islands. For someone that gets bit often, I barely used bug spray. No need for malaria pills either.

Drinking Water

Tap water is not safe to drink in the entire country. Save money by purchasing large water bottles and filling up a reusable bottle at your accommodation. Bars and restaurants often provide filtered water for free.

Tipping

Tipping is not expected, but appreciated. For tipping in most restaurants and bars, round the bill up to the nearest dollar. If they did an exceptional job, tip tour guides 10%.

Places to stay

The three main places to stay on the island are West End, West Bay, and Sandy Bay. Each location is known for its own uniqueness.

West End — The West End is arguably the best place to stay on the island — specifically Half Moon Bay — the area along the shore. As one of the most affordable areas, it is the location of many expats and known for its bars, restaurants, activities, and nightlife. Stay here if possible.

West End

West Bay — The West Bay, often confused with the West End, is located on the tip of the island, just a five minute boat taxi from the West End. It is home to the higher end but less authentic all-inclusive resorts and restaurants as well as a pretty yet crowded white sand beach.

Sandy Bay — Sandy Bay is driving distance from the other two locations and is therefore less touristy. It houses the largest expat community in Central America. Accommodations are more affordable and calm but offer little access to restaurants and activities so I wouldn’t stay here myself.

Honorable mentions

  • Los Fuertes — You might also hear of the area called Los Fuertes. There are no accommodations here, but it is worth pointing out that this is the town where most mainland Hondurans live. It is a community full of people that came to the island looking for safety and better jobs and might be referenced when speaking with locals.
  • Punta Gorda — Punta Gorda is another local community that you might hear. Like Los Fuertes, there are no main accommodations in this area but is worth pointing out because of its historic roots. It was created by former slaves who escaped from British rule to establish their own village. They have their own language and do not sell their land to anyone outside of the community.

Traveling around

Uber does not exist in Roatan. The easiest (and not necessarily affordable) way to get around the island is by taxi. Island cabs aren’t the typical yellow with blinking signs. They’re white, inconspicuous vehicles that have gold numbers on the side and not necessarily a sign that says “taxi”. But don’t fret — you’ll know they’re taxis because the drivers will scream “TAXI?” in your face.

Airport cabs require a set fee of $25 USD for most destinations around the island. Instead walk outside airport borders and flag a taxi down on the side of the road. Because they are not bound by airport rules, taxi fees run as cheap as $3 USD/person.

To get a cab in the West End, walk to the roundabout near the Beach House Boutique Hotel where plenty hang out all day or walk to the outskirts of town to pay cheaper fares.

Note: It is not uncommon for taxis to pick up multiple parties in one trip to save time and make more money if going in the same direction.

Another way to get around is by water taxi, particularly from the West End to the West Bay. It is easy to hail a water taxi by just walking down either beach. Look for the yellow and blue boats. Typical fares between the two locations are $5 USD/person each way. The drive lasts about five minutes. Most drivers wait for at least four passengers before departing, with wait times ranging between two to fifteen minutes. They operate on unfixed times, typically from the early morning to sunset, and will not go after dark.

If you don’t feel like waiting for the boat to fill to at least four people, walk to the end of any dock to flag a local boating by. They often charge the same as a taxi but can sometimes be faster.

Water taxi stand in the West End

Taking a (car) cab is another way to get to and from the West End and West Bay, but costs $25 USD each way and takes twenty minutes — far more expensive and time consuming than a water taxi. Only use this option if traveling after dark.

Although it looks safe from a distance, we were told by locals that it is unsafe to walk the twenty-five minute stretch of beach between the West End and West Bay. Local bandidos have been known to sneak out from the trees and rob tourists. If you take the risk and this occurs, simply run into the water. Rumor has it they won’t disturb you further as they hate getting wet. Who knew!

Renting a car or scooter is another option that I did not explore as you’ll learn very quickly that island drivers are crazy. They care more about getting to their destination as fast as possible than protecting the safety of other motorists and pedestrians. If willing to take the risk, rent from the airport or the two rental places in the West End.

TOP THINGS TO DO IN ROATAN

Spend a day on the West Bay

Roatan is more about what’s in the water to see and explore versus lounging in the sand on shore. Truthfully, I didn’t love the public beaches throughout the island as they’re very crowded, narrow, and covered by hotels. However, out of all the beaches, the West Bay Beach is known for being the most beautiful. It isn’t the massive and wide expanse of beach seen in places like Cancun (because the hotels abut the beach and do not have any private sand space), but the water is crystal clear with gorgeous white sands, good snorkeling, and calm seas.

Many of the hotels along the strip offer day passes which grant full access to beach chairs, umbrellas, wifi, waitstaff service, and pools. Bananarama and Infinity Bay offer solid deals depending on the day of the week and hotel availability. They won’t sell passes if the hotel is already fully booked to ensure hotel guests receive priority. Grand Roatan, the nicest of the accommodations on the strip, used to sell day passes but does not anymore. Paradise Beach Hotel offers the best deals on Sundays. For $30 USD per person, receive full access to the hotel and a $30 food and beverage credit; so the money is well spent! Umbrellas are an additional $15 USD each.

One could skip the day pass altogether and park it on the beach in front of the hotels instead. The only negative to this is that the shoreline offers no shade and umbrellas are not available to rent anywhere outside of the hotels so you’d spend the day directly under the sun.

Far end of West Bay Beach

Get in the water

Roatan is known for its cheap diving certification. If you don’t have this already under your belt, consider completing the course here. There are truly an insane amount of groups to go with — so much so that I’m confused as to how they even differentiate themselves in the market. West End Divers and Sun Divers Roatan come highly recommended, to name a few. Most places also offer night dives to experience the water in a different form.

If diving isn’t your forte, consider snorkeling instead. The island is surrounded by a vast reef worth exploring. No need to book anything ahead of time. Simply visit one of the snorkel shops in the West End or West Bay and book a trip for the next day (or even day of!).

Parasailing is another popular activity. Beachside stands all over the west of the island offer one hour rides for $75/person/hour. Consider going at sunset for wild views.

If even getting in the water isn’t your thing, book a tour on the Glass Bottom Boat excursion. This looked like a cheesy gimmick to me but after talking to other tourists, it turns out this is actually worth the spend.

Take a private tour of the island

West Bay Tours offers one of the most interesting tours on the island. For $65 USD/person, a guide will pick you up in a private car at your accommodation and drive around for five hours, showing the best Roatan has to offer. The tour is tailored to its guests so you decide what to do.

We specifically wanted to learn more about the culture and history of the island. Our guide Jordi brought us to the East End, a more local part of town, where we stopped at AJ’s Monkey and Sloth Sanctuary. Aj’s crew charges $15 USD/person cash to visit the sanctuary filled with guinea pigs, sloths, monkeys, and macaw birds. I’m not an animal person, but loved this as I held a sloth for the first time and had monkeys jumping around on my head.

AJ’s Monkey and Sloth Sanctuary

I regret not stopping at the Arch’s Iguana and Marine Park, home to over three thousand iguanas. Add this to the itinerary. One could take a taxi to these two animal shelters or rent a car to drive the thirty minutes from West End, but I preferred to take a tour as it was less of a hassle.

After, hop on a water taxi tour through the mangrove forests. Pass by local swimming holes — places where citizens visit on weekends and after work to cool off in the sea — and boat by fishing villages on stilts and other beautifully colored houses.

The day is an unforgettable, must-do excursion. We did this first thing in the afternoon when we arrived to get a feel for the area.

Hit the bars and restaurants

Roatan offers numerous types and levels of dining options, especially in the West End. In fact, there are very few chains on the island, save for the one Wendy’s and three Bojangles. We spent a fair amount on food — we couldn’t help it, there’s just too many places!

Regrettably, we learned the hard way (and later confirmed it with locals) that not all restaurants take hygiene as seriously as Western cultures do. Even though they are the cheapest option and can be quite yummy, be wary of street meat and food stalls. We loved our first trip to Ruta Del Sabor Pupuseria, a local West End joint owned by a woman from El Salvador — so she definitely knows pupusas! However, on our second time in, my boyfriend got some of the worst food poisoning of his life, proving that it really can be hit or miss. We heard the same about the taco stands in the West End.

Another aspect to point out is that locals do not frequent restaurants as much as tourists, unfortunately due to the high cost to visit. They prefer to pack a picnic for the beach. The government tried fixing this by passing a locals-only food discount (and more for locals in their ‘third age’…aka over 60), but it hasn’t been as impactful as hoped.

Once the cruise ships leave around 3pm, the streets clear out and it’s easy to walk into most joints, even at sunset. The few places that require reservations are indicated in descriptions below.

Regardless of where you visit, treat yourself to the local Salva Vida beer or a traditional “monkey lala” drink. Don’t know what that is? Order to find out.

Monkey lala

WEST END RESTAURANTS/BARS

  • Blue Marlin — Not my favorite spot as it was completely empty when I visited, but it boasts a solid view for sunset and cheap drinks. Unsurprisingly, I’ve heard it’s more fun when the live band plays.
  • Cafe de Palo — Ten minutes off the beaten path, Cafe de Palo boasts great views of a little water inlet and brunch all day, including smoothies, homemade toast, and coffee.
  • Calelu’s — Calelu’s has traditional and cheap Honduras cuisine, including baleadas — flour tortillas filled with refried beans, cheese, and meat. Eat plenty of these while in town.
  • Drunken Sailor — Its name sounds more like a dive bar than what it actually is — a top tier Italian restaurant. Make a reservation ahead of time but only for after sunset as it does not have beach views.
  • Happy Harry’s Hideaway — Don’t — and I repeat — DON’T — go for food. Go only for drinks. The service is horrendous and I swear they served me bad shrimp (which I turned away immediately due to the smell). I’ve listed it here as drinks are cheap and views are worth it.
  • Ipanema Beach Bar and Grill — Located on stilts over the water, this is my favorite place for sunset. The owners and bartenders are insanely friendly and the food is delicious. We even got a free shot to celebrate the sun going down. Visit the upstairs bakery in the mornings for breakfast.
  • Mila Del Mar — A bar and restaurant tucked in the Beach House Boutique Hotel. Sunset views.
  • Roatan Oasis — Ranked the #1 restaurant on the island and one of the best in Honduras. Make a reservation for sometime after sunset as it does not have beach views. Does NOT accept cash — only card.
  • Pazzo — Owned by Johnny from South Africa, this is the best Italian on the island. It is BYOB, so purchase a bottle of wine at the bodega across the street before entering. Cash only. Make a reservation as it fills up. Select a time after sunset, as the place is set back from the main area and does not have ocean views — so grab a drink on the water beforehand. Contact Johnny on WhatsApp at +504–9889–1732 (the hostess never picks up the actual restaurant phone listed online) or email pazzoroatan@gmail.com. Even if bar seats are open, you are not guaranteed a spot until Johnny confirms the kitchen staff can handle additional guests. It’s a process.
  • Sandy Buns Bakery — The BEST breakfast in town — so much so that we went twice. Don’t pass up the famous cinnamon bun. No really, don’t. Cash and Venmo only.
  • Sundowners Beach Bar — Great sunset spot with live music most nights and happy hour discounts from 5–7pm.
  • Tequila Jacks — Find Tequila Jack’s at the fancy Brisas Del Mar Resort. Great wifi, sunset views, and food. Hack: The pool is technically for hotel guests only, but the often empty little stretch of beach and beach chairs can be used by anyone. Go here to avoid crowds.
  • The Roatan Chocolate Factory — Some of the best espresso and pastries I’ve had in Central America. Free chocolate tastings and fabulous wifi. I often worked from this coffee shop as I loved the vibe.
  • Yahongreh? — Say it out loud. Notice anything? The name is local slang for “you hungry?” This place is a small breakfast shack with traditional and yummy food. Cash only.
Sunset at Tequila Jack’s

OUTSIDE THE WEST END

  • Cayuco Beach Bar and Restaurant Typical beach bar restaurant. Located at the Paradise Beach Hotel in the West Bay.
  • Roatan Island Brewing Co — 10/10! Friendly staff and fun atmosphere. Offers a full bar, not just beer. The only negative is that it requires a taxi to get here as it’s a thirty-minute drive away on the other side of the island. Worth it.
  • La Palapa Beach Bar and Grill — Located in the Infinity Bay Resort in the West Bay. Often has live music. Great wifi.

SPEND MORE TIME IN CENTRAL AMERICA

Continuing to travel through Central America? Check out my guides on El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Guatemala!

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