Top things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia
- Date visited: August 2023
- Time needed: 3 days, 3 nights
General Information
Georgia is a country the size of Bavaria that straddles both Asia and Europe. It is considered part of the Caucasus region, located between the Black and Caspian Seas. It’s also home to the first Europeans as the oldest skulls in the world — over 1.8 million years old — were found in the country.
Tbilisi, the capital, is a city of over one million residents located along the Kura River. Founded in the 5th century, it is now the country’s largest city. Today it is home to a melting pot of cultures, religions, and ethnicities and is an exciting and unique place to visit.
Note: Unlike other parts of the Caucasus region, women are not required to wear certain garb or cover their heads. I wore everything I typically wear in America and blended in.
Communication
Georgian is the main language, which is a tongue used nowhere else on earth. Although not everyone speaks English fluently, most younger Georgians know enough to communicate with visitors — especially since learning English has been mandatory in schools since 2008. Before then, Russian was the second main language taught. However, due to rising tensions and the unofficial Russian occupation of 20% of Georgia, many Georgians disapprove of the country and go out of their way to not speak the language.
Today, residents write and speak the Georgian language using both Latin and Georgian alphabets. The Georgian alphabet is unlike any other alphabet in the world and is not even similar to Armenian! Each version has its own distinct pronunciation. As a result, street signage across the country outlines both versions, one on top of the other.
A couple of interesting things to note in Georgian:
- “Gamarjoba” means “hi” but a direct translation is actually “I wish you a victory.” Pretty intense way to greet someone!
- “Daddy” means “mother” and “mommy” means “father” — so if you see a child calling his dad “mommy”; they aren’t confused — this is normal.
Weather
The city is incredibly hot and humid in the summer and cold in the winter, with temperatures averaging 90°F and 35°F respectively. The best time to visit is between April through June and September through October.
Safety
Georgia is one of the safest countries in the world. The only area to avoid (and cannot be visited by most Americans) is the 20% forcibly occupied by Russia since 2008, encompassing approximately forty villages.
Tbilisi itself is a safe city, especially after 2005 when 85% of the police across the city and country were fired due to corruption and replaced with more trusting, better trained officials. Police stations were also remade with glass windows so citizens can see into them, symbolically providing more public “transparency.” Now, even petty crime rarely exists. Be wary of pickpockets in major areas, especially from the Roman Gypsy children in Liberty Square. Apart from that, be smart and you’ll be fine.
Traveling around
The easiest way to travel around the city is by utilizing Yandex Go, a rideshare app that in Georgia (unlike Armenia) accepts both cash and card. Taxis are also convenient. Be sure to bargain before beginning the ride.
The metro system is another transport option. Rustaveli Metro Station — one of the main stations in the city — is unique. It was originally built by the Russians in the 1960’s to act as a nuclear bunker. As a result, it is located deep underground and is only accessed via an escalator ride that takes a long two minutes and ten seconds.
For longer distances, day trips, and transfers, consider reserving a private transfer with Envoy Hostel or by booking a car through GoTrip. This is a service that allows one to select their own driver based on reviews, preferred language, and car type. Pay in cash on the day of. We used this service and found it to be very reliable. I can’t recommend it enough.
However, although driving is by far the easiest way to get around, do not rent a car yourself. The drivers are a different breed — they’re insane, fast, and unpredictable. They lack training and patience — so unless you’re well versed in driving in this part of the world, avoid it.
On a different note, notice that different vehicles have the steering wheel on different sides of the car. Those on the right hand side were imported from Japan (often purchased through Russia). Some citizens prefer these vehicles because they are cheaper to purchase. However, they are taxed more. Many of the left-sided steering cars are now imported from the US at large discounts. Regardless of which side the steering wheel is on, everyone drives on the right hand side like in the US.
Another item to note is that, due to political and social turmoil, tourists cannot travel to Azerbaijan directly from Georgia via land routes. Only flying is permitted. Keep this in mind when planning.
Wifi
Fast wifi is available in most establishments.
Payment
The main currency is the Georgian Lari. Euros are also frequently accepted. Credit cards are accepted almost all the time, even in markets, so I rarely used cash.
Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything is charged in the local currency when in person.
Note: Keep an eye out for the gray and blue electronic kiosks located all over the country. These are “pay boxes” that provide a simple and convenient system to do many things including pay bills, make charitable donations, top up phone cards, send free texts, and even increase funds on gambling accounts! Many citizens use these to complete daily tasks, so take a second to scroll through the possibilities — it’s very unique.
Drinking Water
Tap water is safe to drink in Tbilisi. Complimentary fountains can be found throughout the area, making it easy to access fresh water in most parts of the city.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected in restaurants and bars but consider tipping 10% if the service is beyond exceptional. Tour guides should be tipped at least 10%.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
The best area of town to stay in is near the city center and Old Town. Airbnb offers great accommodations throughout the city. For hostels, try Envoy Hostel.
Regardless of where you stay, if you are traveling in the summer, ensure the accommodations include AC as the city can be unbearably hot even at night.
Top things to do in Tbilisi (in no particular order)
All key sights in Tbilisi are closeby, so providing a full “itinerary” is unnecessary. Select the places you want to visit when it makes the most sense to you and know that they are almost all within walking distance from each other.
In addition, the city, unlike others, does not have numerous museums, places of history, and monuments to discover. Most of the intrigue lies in just meandering through the streets, indulging in the food and wine culture, and observing the locals. Keep this in mind when planning your itinerary.
Free Walking Tour
The best way to see and understand a city is by taking a free walking tour. This is particularly so with Tbilisi as the city has so much rich history. GuruWalk offers a long three hour but fun walking tour through major parts of the city. The tour starts in Freedom Square in the modern part of town, across from City Hall.
Stroll across Liberty Square, formerly called Lenin Square, which divides the modern section of town from Old Town. Pass by the Peace Bridge, a structure built in 2010 to express Georgia’s desire for peace with Russia. It flashes nightly in Morse Code “let there be peace in the world.”
Eventually walk to the Clock Tower, a structure with a clock that chimes every hour accompanied by an appearance by a mechanical angel. At noon and 7pm every day, the chimes also include an electric puppet show. The tower itself leans to one side to poetically symbolize that time is different — not straight or uniform — for everyone. People value time differently; for example — some constantly arrive late while others are always early. Time changes from person to person and isn’t linear.
The tour ends near the cable car.
Tbilisi Cable Car
The Tbilisi Cable Car is a fun way to see an aerial view of the city. Pay $1 USD either with cash or card to take the five minute ride to the top of the Narikala Fortress for gorgeous sights of Tbilisi. To return, take the cable car down or walk the easy fifteen minutes to the bottom.
Meidan Bazaar
The Meidan Bazaar is a small underground market formerly part of the great Silk Road. It offers jewelry, packaged foods, clothes, and my favorite — wine ice cream.
Tbilisi Street Market
The Tbilisi Street Market is a local favorite, located in front of the First Republic of Georgia and occurring every weekend from 12–9pm. Everything in the market is handmade in Georgia, including jewelry, art, bags, and more.
National Botanical Gardens of Georgia
The Botanical Gardens, on the backside of the Narikala Fortress, are not a must do, but if time permits are worth visiting. It is huge, a bit confusing and at least in August is filled with more greenery than flowers. But if taking a stroll through a pretty area is of interest to you, take an hour and explore. The cost per ticket is around $3 USD.
Abanotubani Hot Springs
Tbilisi means “warm city” in Georgian, which is fitting as the city offers both public and private natural sulfur hot springs — some of which are over two thousand years old. Abanotubani is one of the most popular springs to visit, located in Old Town. I didn’t get the chance to go, so I can’t speak to it personally, but heard it’s worth spending an hour inside.
Restaurants
Tbilisi is a food city. It’s also one of the birthplaces of wine. In fact, it has a longstanding rivalry with Armenia as both countries claim they are home to the oldest wineries. Georgian wine dates back to 8,000 BC! Regardless, it’s worth dedicating a good portion of the trip to experiencing Georgian cuisine and wine culture.
Note that typical Georgian work hours are from 10am-7pm. As a result, most coffee shops and breakfast places do not open until 9 or 10am and restaurants wait until 8 or 9pm to begin serving dinner.
Some of the traditional, must-try foods are as follows -
Khachapuri — Cheese filled bread, sometimes with a sunnyside egg in the middle. Absolutely delicious.
Khinkali — Traditional Georgian dumplings filled with meat and spices. The proper way to consume these is by picking one up with your hands then biting into it to suck out the soup. Then, eat everything but the top doughy portion as it’s not technically cooked all the way. (Or be like me and eat it regardless as it’s still yummy!) Khinkali are typically paired with beer and chacha, not wine. True Georgians eat at least ten per sitting. Me — I’ll eat two and be full.
Chakapuli — A lamb and tarragon stew that is one of the most popular dishes in the country.
Kharcho — A meat, walnut, tomato and rice soup.
Dolma — A dish made with minced meat, onion, rice, and spices wrapped in a vine leaf.
Eggplant salad with walnuts — It sounds funky, but boy is it delicious. I wish I knew how to make this at home.
Chacha — An ever-alcoholic aperitif. To make, producers take leftover portions from creating wine and distill it into a liquor. Store-bought chacha is around 40% ABV, while homemade chacha can be up to 70%!
Wine! — Wine is a massive part of Georgian culture and Tbilisians like to say that “in this city, you are never sober.” The average Georgian drinks three to five bottles of wine daily. Can you imagine! Not to mention, many buildings are made with wine-based concrete. So when you’re drinking wine, you’re not just getting tipsy, you’re participating in tradition and diving into history! Consequently, don’t be surprised to see a wine bar on every block. Some of the best wine bars are as follows -
- Black Lion — good drinks and live music
- Fabrika — cool bar in a hostel
- Impulse
- Tsitska Wine Shop
- Wine Tower — Enter in through a wine shop where you purchase a bottle and drink it upstairs on the patio.
Recommended restaurants are as follows -
- Barbastan — One of the best traditional restaurants in the country. Reservations highly suggested.
- Baoma — traditional fare with a rooftop terrace
- Cheri Pasta Bar — homemade pasta
- Falafel Box — Lebanese
- Khinkali House — traditional
- Kvarts Coffee — coffee shop where the baristas draw portraits of each visitor on their own disposable coffee cup
- Khinkali Pub — the chef is from Khinkali so she knows how to properly prepare these dumplings!
- Shavi Lomi
- Veriko
- Zodiaqo-rikeze — cash only
Winery Day Trip
Because wine is such an important and historic part of Georgian culture, embark on a day trip to the Kvareli region to experience wine first hand. Envoy Hostel offers a small group tour for $65 USD per person. Although a lot of driving is involved as the region is over two hours from Tbilisi, it’s worth it.
The tour begins at a winery for a tasting where you really begin to understand why Georgians have such a high tolerance for booze! Our guide had us “tasting” six or seven full glasses of wine. Needless to say — if your tolerance is low, don’t feel obligated to appease them by drinking it all. It’s a lot, especially so early in the morning!
Next head to Sighairi, the “city of love” where couples can get married 24/7. It’s also a huge honeymoon destination filled with gorgeous castles, fortresses, cafes, and restaurants. Take a quick thirty minute walking tour through the streets before hopping back in the car to visit a second winery.
End the day with traditional lunch at a local’s home — arguably the best part of the trip. Dine on homemade khinkali, eggplant salad, meat, lavash, and of course — more wine. Arrive back in Tbilisi around 6pm.
Day Trip to Gori and Uplistsikhe
Envoy Hostel offers another great $65 USD tour to Gori, the hometown of Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin, and Uplistsikhe, an ancient cave city. I didn’t think I’d enjoy this trip as much as I did! Take a guided tour through the Stalin Museum, an ode to his memory, impact, and Soviet history — and understand just how many people still love and support him. For someone that was involved in the deaths of over 20 million people, it’s incredible how much he is still looked up to. Later, stop by the cave city to marvel at the 9th century rock-cut village that was once a religious, political, and cultural center and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Learn how the ancient people once lived and survived inside the stone walls. Grab an audio guide as the museum lacks signage. Like the wine tour, make it a point to see these places as they’re unique and exquisite.
SPEND MORE TIME IN THE AREA
Heading to Armenia? View my guide on Yerevan here.
