Itinerary for one week in Norway
- Dates visited: July 2023
- Areas visited: Oslo, Flåm, Balestrand, Bergen
- Time Needed: 7–8 days
General Information
Norway, meaning “way to the north”, is one of three Scandinavian nations and has over fifty thousand miles of coastline. It used to be one of the poorest countries in Europe, so much so that it experienced a large exodus of citizens to the US in 1825 in search of a better life. It wasn’t until natural gas and oil were discovered off the coast on Christmas Day in 1969 that the country became profitable. Now, the 5.1 million inhabitants enjoy a steady welfare state that provides economic wealth and success. It is consistently ranked one of the happiest nations in the world, with one of the wealthiest economies that enables most citizens to own their homes. In addition, it has one of the world’s best public education systems and the best in Europe. 97% of high schoolers (ages 16–19) are enrolled in state schools. The country has come a long way from its impoverished history and is an exceptional place to visit and explore.
This guide outlines a possible itinerary for one week in the country. Below is a quick overview of the proposal:
- Day 1: Oslo
- Day 2: Oslo
- Day 3: Oslo to Flåm
- Day 4: Flåm to Balestrand
- Day 5: Balestrand to Bergen
- Day 6: Bergen
- Day 7: Bergen
- Day 8: Departure
Communication
Norwegian is the main language in the country. English is a close second, so it is very easy to get around.
Payment
Norway uses the Norwegian Krone (NOK), not the Euro, as its currency. Debit/credit cards are accepted approximately 95% of the time so taking out cash is not necessary. If cash is something you’d prefer to have, visit your local bank before leaving your home country to receive the best currency exchange rates.
An item to note is that all of the Nordics are very expensive in comparison to the rest of Europe. It’s not uncommon to pay $15-$20 USD for a glass of wine or $30+ for an entree. Plan to spend more than normal while traveling around this area.
Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything in real time is charged in the local currency.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected for restaurants and bars but feel free to tip 10% if the service is beyond exceptional. Tour guides — however — should be tipped at least 10%.
Upon check out, if paying via card, waitstaff will ask you to type in the final desired amount into the card reader. This is when a tip can be added in, if preferred to do so.
Weather
During warmer months, temperatures range from 60°F — 75°F and dip a bit at night. Most accommodations do not have air conditioning so keep the window open while sleeping to allow for a breeze.
In the winter, the area experiences sleet, cold rain, and very little snow, with temperatures around 30°F — 40°F. This season is also the one with the least amount of light. Being so close to the North Pole, Norwegian winter sunrises occur around 9am, with light completely gone by 3:30pm. Another reason to consider visiting in the warmer months, when the sun is often out from 5am through 11pm.
Note: While planning, consider the fact that most establishments are closed on Sundays and some on Mondays, even in the summer. Places are closed far more regularly in the winter.
Traveling around
Oslo and Bergen are very walkable cities. Public transportation, taxis, and Uber are easy to use as well. When traveling through the fjords, ferries and trains are the easiest way to move about.
Safety
Norway is one of the safest countries in the world, so much so that when I asked the assistant at our Oslo hotel if it was safe to walk all over the city, she scoffed at me and said “there is no unsafe place here.” It is worth mentioning, however, that although petty crime is not something most people worry about, pickpockets can be found in Oslo from time to time. Bergen, on the other hand, is insanely safe — so much so that many citizens don’t lock their doors at night. The fjords experience virtually no crime.
Drinking Water
Tap water is safe to drink everywhere and complimentary at bars and restaurants.
Wifi
Fast wifi is available in most establishments.
Cuisine
Traditional Norwegian cuisine consists of meat and fish paired with potatoes and vegetables. Lamb, kjøttboller (meatballs), cod, and salmon are often on the menu. Unbeknownst to many, it was the Norwegians that introduced salmon sushi to the Japanese, which is now a staple of the Asian diet and a long withstanding tradition in the Nordics.
Another traditional staple is brown cheese, a tan colored product with a sweeter caramel flavor. It can be found in everything from charcuterie boards to ice cream. Although it wasn’t my favorite, it’s worth a try.
More extravagantly on the menu are reindeer and whale. Norway is one of three countries (including Iceland and Japan) that are legally allowed to fish for whales — and only minke whales. This type of whale is one of the smallest and most ubiquitous in the world. Norwegians are allowed to catch up to one thousand whales each year, though they typically only catch around five hundred. Fishermen have learned they make more money in today’s society marketing whale watching tours instead of catching the prey for food. Regardless, many shops around the country sell whale burgers, sausage, and jerky.
Norway has also experienced a boom in surprising food trends. The most consumed dish is tacos. This is because of the massive influence Mexicans had on food culture upon moving to the area to work in the oil fields during the natural gas boom. Taco Fridays are now a national staple.
The second most eaten dish is frozen pizza — specifically the iconic Norwegian brand, Grandiosa pizza. Because of this craze, Norwegians eat the most frozen pizza per capita in the world.
In terms of drinks, alcohol is highly taxed, so most Norwegians purchase bottles duty free at the airport to consume at home.
Oslo
- Time Needed: Two days
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: City center
General Information
Oslo, once known as “Christiania”, is the capital of Norway. It is the country’s embarkation and disembarkation port as travelers often fly in and out of the city to access the rest of the country. However, it offers far more than it’s given credit for.
My initial impression of the city was that it was gritty and unattractive. This was purely because I was near the downtown shopping district next to the train station — arguably the ugliest section of town. After exploring, I quickly learned this is a must-do spot on a Norway trip.
The capital is known for many things. It’s the city with the most electric vehicles in the world and home to the Nobel Peace Prize. It also has a high degree of educated citizens (over 60% has a university degree). It is surrounded by the Oslomarka (the Oslo forest), which is filled with walking trails as well as creatures like lynx, beaver, and moose. And my favorite — it’s the place where famous author Roald Dahl, author of Matilda, James and the Giant Peach, and Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, used to spend summers with his grandparents.
Weather
Oslo averages around thirty days of pure sunshine each year, with most of the city surrounded in clouds at any point. Summers range in temperature from 60°F to 70°F degrees, with ample hours of daylight. Winters are far colder, with few daylight hours, fairly consistent snow, and temperatures averaging 20°F. As Norwegians say, there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing — so if visiting in the winter, dress accordingly.
Places to stay
Because of the high price of living, accommodations are very pricey even for low budget establishments. For a splurge, book a room at the Grand Hotel where Nobel Peace Prize winners stay before the ceremony at the University of Oslo.
Thon Hotels, a three- starred Norwegian hotel chain, offers accommodations all over the city. We stayed at the Hotel Thon Spectrum in the downtown shopping district. Although the location itself wasn’t very attractive, the rooms were great and the free buffet was intricate and delicious.
Traveling to and from the airport
Taking the train is the cheapest way to travel to and from the city center and airport. The airport offers two train options. Flytoget is the express twenty-minute train, running every twenty minutes for around $46 roundtrip. The local R12 train is just as convenient, runs in similar intervals, and takes about the same amount of time as Flytoget — but is half the price. Save money and stick to the local train. Both have wifi.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY ONE: Free walking tour, Aker Brygge seaport district
Most people that spend just two days in the city arrive in Oslo on the first day in the morning or early afternoon. Considering this, drop bags at your accommodation then enjoy your first meal at Barcode Street Food, a local spot offering a fun array of food and drinks. After, walk ten minutes to Jernbanetorget (Railway Square) for the 1pm free walking tour.
The tour will hit key highlights such as Oslo City Hall, the National Theater, and the Opera House. Built in 2008 by the same firm that created the 9/11 Memorial in NYC and the Alexandria Library in Egypt, the Opera House is an incredible piece of architecture built to look like an iceberg or glacier. It’s located on the commercial harbor, which wasn’t much twenty years ago but is now the most modern area of the country.
After the tour, head to the Akershus Fortress, a 13th century medieval castle on the water now home to a concert stage, beautiful grounds, and several history museums. If World War II is something that interests you, spend an hour at the Resistance Museum learning about Norway’s resistance movement during the Nazi occupation from 1940 to 1945. This museum isn’t the most influential or as well done as other WWII exhibitions around the world — it’s actually a bit dated and at times disorganized — but for history buffs, (and for $10 USD), it’s interesting enough to devote time to.
Next head to Aker Brygge, the seaport district about a fifteen minute walk from the fortress. This is the city’s former shipyard area turned nightlife hub. Grab a drink at Pastis Bistrobar, Olivia, or one of the many bars and restaurants along the Oslo Fjord. Be sure to walk through the nearby waterfront neighborhood Tjuvholmen, one of the most expensive places to live in Oslo.
DAY TWO: Hop on hop off bus, Grünerløkka neighborhood
Typically I shy away from taking hop on hop off buses as I’d much prefer to walk. However, because many of Oslo’s main attractions are spread out across different neighborhoods, this bus system is worth it. The city offers two different tour companies — Sightseeing Oslo and City Sightseeing Norway. Both are the same price when purchased online ($36 USD/person for 24 hours), visit similar landmarks on similar thirty-minute schedules, offer onboard commentary, and provide free wifi. We selected (for no particular reason) Sightseeing Oslo. It was very prompt and had ample seating. My only complaint was that the onboard commentary was a bit dry, but I still felt I learned a lot.
The first bus leaves at 10am from the Opera House. Arrive at the stop a little earlier to climb the attraction’s roof before hopping the bus to one of my favorite areas in the city, Vigeland Sculpture Park.
Note: Before stopping at Vigeland Sculpture Park, the bus stops at the metro station that leads to the Holmenkollen Ski Museum and Hill, home to an Olympic-sized ski jump. We’re huge skiers but ran out of time to do this. Add this into your day if it is important to you.
Vigeland Sculpture Park is located in Frogner Park, the largest park in Oslo’s inner city. It is a massive and beautiful area displaying the works of Gustav Vigeland, Norway’s greatest sculptor who designed over six hundred statues onsite between 1924 to 1943. The park is free and open 24/7.
Notice how every statue is naked. This is on purpose. Vigeland wanted his sculptures to remain timeless and knew that dressing them in garb would indicate a certain time period, thereby tarnishing his goal. This exemplifies how much time and effort he put into constructing these masterpieces.
This park is huge — so if tired, thirsty, hungry, or all of the above, stop at cafe Anne På Landet in the park’s center for delicious food and drink in a gorgeous setting. Note that it does not have its own restroom. Instead, guests must use the park’s public toilets that cost $1.50 USD/use and accept both cash and credit cards.
Hop back on the bus to head to Bygdøy, a peninsula across the harbor from downtown Oslo known for its copious amount of museums. This neighborhood can also be accessed via ferry, city bus, or taxi. Just keep in mind that ferries stop frequent service around 5pm and taxis tend to be very expensive.
Key museums on Bygdøy are as follows:
- Viking Ship Museum — the most recommended but unfortunately closed for rebuilding until at least 2025
- Norwegian Museum of Cultural History (or the Norsk Folkemuseum) — an open air exhibit filled with over 150 historical buildings relocated from different areas of the country
- Kon Tiki Museum — highlights the 1947 raft journey across the Pacific Ocean from South America to the Polynesian islands, led by a famous Norwegian explorer
- Fram Museum — tells the story of Norwegian expeditions to the Arctic
- Norwegian Maritime Museum — presents Norwegian maritime and shipbuilding history. Only recommended for absolute maritime enthusiasts.
- Holocaust Center — mostly for Norwegians as it is completely in their language and not recommended for non-speakers
These are all within fifteen minutes walking distance from each other so it’s realistic to complete two in one day if desired. We visited the Norsk Folkemuseum which was interesting in some areas and completely disorganized and confusing in others. Overall I’d still recommend it to get a feel for traditional Norwegian life.
Once done with museums, take the hop on bus back to the Opera House. Next on the itinerary is to head to the Grünerløkka neighborhood, the former working class area that is now vibrant, young, and unbeknownst to most tourists. To get there, leave from the Opera House along the river and make the necessary stop at Paradise Gelateria for a quick cone and to watch locals swim around the docks. Then walk along the Alkerselva, a river that flows through the city, to Grünerløkka. You’ll know you’re there when you begin to see vintage hipster and secondhand shops. To be absolutely sure, plug in “Olaf Ryes Plass” or “Birkelunden”, two parks abutting Thorvald Meyers Gate, a street in the heart of the neighborhood.
Bakgården på Løkka and Grünerløkka Brygghus are two great bars with outdoor seating. We ate at Theka Indian Street Food & Bar along a small park and although my parents wouldn’t recommend it, I didn’t mind it. I’ll let you make your own decision.
After a full two days in the city, it’s time to hop on one of Europe’s most beautiful trains to the fjords.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Anne På Landet — cafe in Frogner Park
- Bakgården på Løkka — bar in the Grünerløkka district
- Barcode Street Food — food hall with indoor + outdoors seating
- Grünerløkka Brygghus — bar in the Grünerløkka district
- Kaffebrenneriet — local coffee chain serving all natural ingredients
- Lorry Restaurant — yummy food
- Olivia — Norwegian chain serving Italian classics
- Paradise Gelateria — great gelato
- Pastis Bistrobar — great for drinks on the water
- Theka Indian Street Food & Bar — restaurant in the Grünerløkka district
Traveling through the Fjords
One cannot travel all the way to Norway without spending several days experiencing the breathtaking fjords that have made this country famous. Fjord Tours’ Norway in a Nutshell offers a self-guided itinerary and travel agent service that makes it easy for travelers to understand their options and book transportation, hotels, and excursions. What’s great about this company is that you are able to choose your route, length, and activities all in one place (though guests pay a premium for the service, so one might save money by booking each individual item oneself. It’s up to you; but at least use this as a general guide for what to do and see).
Most travelers visit the fjords in one day — hence the name “Norway in a Nutshell.” I’d highly advise against this. The area offers far more to see than one day allows, and part of the fun is spending nights in less touristic places where one can truly get a feel for the majesty of the sites.
Below is the outline for one day in the fjords, which leaves Oslo at either 6:20am or 8:20am and arrives in Bergen at 6:45pm or 8:45pm respectively. The 6:20am passage often has less crowds than the latter, but the trade off is waking up much earlier. The full cost of either time slot is around $275 USD per person. This trip could also be done in reverse, from Bergen to Oslo:
- Train from Oslo to Myrdal (4 hour ride, 10 min layover to change trains in Myrdal)
- Train from Myrdal to Flåm (1 hour ride, 45 min layover in Flåm to explore)
- Ferry from Flåm to Gudvangen (2 hour ride, travels through the Nærøyfjord, with a 25 min layover in Gudvangen)
- Bus from Gudvangen to Voss (1.5 hour ride with a 20 min layover in Voss)
- Train from Voss to Bergen (1.5 hour ride)
Opt to spend at least two nights in the fjords, one in Flåm and another in Balestrand — a small village not listed on the typical Nutshell tour but worth making time for. A more opportune itinerary is as follows:
Day 1: Oslo to Flåm
- Train from Oslo to Myrdal (4 hour ride, 10 mins to change trains in Myrdal)
- Train from Myrdal to Flåm (1 hour ride)
- Explore Flåm and stay the night
Day 2: Flåm to Balestrand
- Enjoy a morning activity in Flåm
- Ferry from Flåm to Balestrand (1.5 hours)
- Explore Balestrand and stay the night
Day 3: Balestrand to Bergen
- Tour the Jostedalsbreen Glacier and National Park via Glaciertour.no
- Return back to Balestrand for the ferry to Bergen (4 hours)
- Explore Bergen for the next several days
What I would not recommend is traveling by car to any of these fjord destinations. The roadways have numerous tunnels completely obstructing water views and driving on one’s own can be stressful. Boats and trains are far more relaxing and always on time, so rest assured you’d be in good hands.
Regardless of which itinerary you choose, know that public transportation services are VERY in sync with each other. If one segment is delayed, the other will wait to ensure all guests will reach their destination (as everyone is essentially on the same trip!). Also note that ALL MODES OF TRANSPORTATION must be booked in advance, as they sell out quickly, sometimes months ahead of time. Lastly, the best time to travel is in the summer when everything is completely open. This in theory could be completed in winter, but most sights are closed and trains are less frequent. Fall is hit or miss, weather depending.
Fjord Weather
As stated above, summer is the best time to visit this area as the weather averages 60°F, with rain and clouds occuring most days but in spurts. Winter is cold and unbearable, with darkness befalling the fjords well into the day. Most places, including Flåm and Balestrand, close down from mid-September through mid-May.
The next several pages outline an itinerary for spending one night each in Flåm and Balestrand.
Flåm
Time Needed: One day
Traveling from Oslo to Flåm
As previously stated, two trains are required to arrive in Flåm, which can be booked either with Fjord Tours or directly through Norway Trains. The first leg from Oslo to Myrdal takes four hours. It offers pre-reserved seats, restrooms, and a minimal food cart. Select seats on the right hand side for the best views. Wifi is unavailable.
The second leg from Myrdal to Flåm is one hour on the famous Flamsbana Railway, one of the steepest railways in the world. The journey passes under twenty tunnels, travels over twelve miles, and makes a quick five-minute stop at a beautiful waterfall. Specific seats cannot be reserved, but that shouldn’t matter as both sides offer gorgeous views. Wifi is unavailable here as well.
General Information
Flåm, pronounced “flome”, is a small village of four hundred inhabitants used as the jumping off point for all outdoor activities in the area. It is located in the Aurlandsfjord, which is connected to the greater Sognefjord, the country’s longest fjord that spans over 120 miles. The town’s port is large enough to fit a 7,000 passenger cruise ship, which unfortunately mars the beauty of the area when docked. When the ship is gone (typically every day after 4pm, and some days it is not even there at all!), the town is a truly breathtaking part of the country — another reason to spend at least a night.
Places to stay
Flåm Hostel and Camping Bungalows is a nice and affordable option even for folks that aren’t used to traveling in hostels. Book either a cabin, private hostel room, or outdoor camping space (only for those with proper equipment) and enjoy access to beautiful views, fast wifi, and a shared kitchen.
Fretheim Hotel is a more expensive option, but wasn’t that impressive upon visiting the lobby and hotel grounds.
Note: Remember, accommodations throughout this entire fjord journey (including Flåm & Balestrand) can be booked through Fjord Tours’ “Norway in a Nutshell” or separately. It is worth comparing prices.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY THREE: Explore Flåm
If the later departure time from Oslo is selected, arrive in Flåm around 2pm. On most days, the ugly and overpowering cruise ship will be in the harbor. To avoid crowds as much as possible, take your time dropping bags at your accommodation and grab a quick nap if need be. Another option is to go on one of the several gorgeous hikes in the area. The most recommended hike is the three mile roundtrip Raokjen Viewpoint Trail, with views of the Brekkefossen waterfall and Flåm. By the time the rest or hike is over, most cruise ship passengers will be back on board as the ship leaves between 4–5pm.
Now it’s time to explore the little village without the chaos of crowds. Bop into the many cute souvenir shops, enjoy a snack at the food truck market, or grab a flight at the Ægir Microbrewery. Bakkastova Cafe is also a great spot for a drink. Splurge for dinner at Flåmstova Restaurant or keep it low key with pizza at the Little Red Wagon.
DAY FOUR: Kayaking in Flåm, Ferry to Balestrand
Begin the day with one of several outdoor adventure activities in the harbor and greater Aurlandsfjord. Complete a larger hike, take a speed boat tour, or go sea kayaking with Njord Tours. We chose kayaking and loved our little three hour excursion. Njord offers several tours each day. I’d recommend the earliest option beginning at 8:30am as it is often the least crowded and waters tend to be calmer in the morning. The company also offers the option to rent kayaks sans a tour.
Grab lunch in town before boarding the 3pm ferry to Balestrand.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Ægir Microbrewery — Amazing beer flights
- Bakkastova Cafe — Cute spot on a hill. Stops serving food (apart from premade sandwiches) at 5pm. No wifi.
- Flåmstova Restaurant — Higher end restaurant with buffet for breakfast and lunch and an a la carte dinner.
- Little Red Wagon — Stone oven pizza
Balestrand
Time Needed: One day
Traveling from Flåm to Balestrand
The Norled Express Ferry takes travelers from Flåm to Balestrand in just ninety minutes. (Balestrand is a stop on the larger 5-hour transfer to Bergen). Wifi is available, but it is spotty and really only strong enough for texting.
General Information
Balestrand, meaning “town with an island”, is a small village that used to be an island before the water was filled to connect it with the mainland. It was made famous by the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhem II as he summered here between 1899 and the beginning of the first World War. Even with tourists, it is a very quiet town and the year long population averages around a mere two-thousand people. It’s so calm and carefree that the police station even closes on weekends! Balestrand is a must-add stop to the fjord itinerary.
Places to stay
Although the Kviknes Hotel is on the pricier side of options in the area, it is one of the best places to stay. The hotel is one of the largest and oldest wooden buildings in Norway, dating back to the 1879’s. (This does not include the hideous eight-story, late 20th century add-on that closely resembles a dorm at the University of New Hampshire). Kviknes resides right on the water, with spectacular views of the fjords, especially from the cocktail bar.
Another option is the family owned Balestrand Hotell down the street.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY FOUR [Cont’d]: Explore Balestrand
Arrive in Balestrand around 5pm and check into your accommodations. Then, use the ample daylight to walk around the little village. Notice the beautiful and serene white and red houses covering the area. These colors are the most popular and have even become synonymous with the Norwegian fjords because white was once the most expensive paint color while red was the least expensive. As a result, locals flaunted their wealth (or inadvertently made their “lower” status obvious) with their paint choices. The colors have remained ever since, now part of the landscape.
Whatever you do, do NOT miss eating dinner on the water at Fløyfisken Restaurant at the Sognefjord Aquarium. Normally I wouldn’t recommend eating at aquariums, but this is more so a restaurant that happens to be at a “tourist attraction.” The views are absolutely breathtaking — some of the best in the fjords — and the food is delicious.
End the night with a drink at Kviknes Hotel on the balcony above the water.
DAY FIVE: Balestrand Water Activity
The best way to explore Balestrand is to get out into the fjords. Fjord Active offers several tours including glacier hikes, body rafting, and kayaking. Another great option is to take a fjord and glacier tour with Glaciertour.no. This is the tour we selected.
Beginning at noon, hop on board a ferry in the Balestrand port and travel through the Fjærlandsfjord to Fjærland. Be sure to check out of your hotel and bring ALL luggage on the tour as you will only have five minutes between the end of the tour in Balestrand and hopping on the ferry to Bergen. Remember that these ferries and tours are well connected, so if your tour is slightly late — the ferry to Bergen will wait. However, ferries will not wait for anyone that is simply late on their own accord.
Upon arrival in Fjærland, disembark for the Norwegian Glacier Museum to learn about the history of local glaciers before heading down the street to the famous Bøyabreen Glacier — a branch of Jostedalsbreen Glacier in Jostedalsbreen National Park that is the largest ice cap in Europe.
I enjoyed this tour, but wished we had time to hike in the national park and explore the area a bit more. Regardless, it was a great experience with breathtaking landscapes.
Arrive back at Balestrand around 5pm just in time for the 5:15pm ferry to Bergen, lasting around four hours.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
Traveling from Balestrand to Bergen
As described above, the ferry from Balestrand to Bergen is on the Norled Express and takes approximately four hours. It is a segment of the Flåm to Balestrand Norled Express Ferry.
Bergen
- Time Needed: Two days
- Neighborhoods to Stay In: City center
General Information
Bergen, founded in 1070, is a much smaller city than Oslo and famous for being the gateway to the fjords. It’s located within the gulf stream, so its harbor is ice-free year round. For those reasons, it’s one of the largest cruise ship destinations in Europe.
The city is home to one of the most famous landmarks in the country; Bryggen. Pronounced “broogen”, this wharf is celebrated for its colorfully painted buildings lining the harbor since the 12th century. In 1349, the Black Death arrived to the city on an English merchant ship, killing over 50% of Norwegians, including almost the entire Bryggen merchant population. Desperate, the King made a deal with the Hanseatic League, a trading organization headquartered in Germany. The deal encouraged German merchants to move to Bryggen and enjoy exclusive rights to trading stockfish (dried cod) and housing in the area. In exchange, they agreed to bring food (mostly grain) and money to the city.
As the fishing industry boomed, merchants clustered together in one section of town. This enabled another industry to rapidly grow; prostitution. Unsurprisingly, this created rife with locals and marred the city’s reputation until the Germans eventually left in the 18th century.
Because all of the buildings in the area were constructed of wood, the city burnt down almost every thirty years. As a result, not long after the German merchants left, Bryggen experienced one of the worst fires in history. Almost everything burnt to the ground and required rebuilding. Today, some original homes and shops remain, though most are reconstructed. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Weather
Bergen is the rainiest city in Europe, receiving only sixty days of sunshine on a good year. The benefit to this is that the temperatures stay just above freezing so it rarely snows. Overall, temperatures average around 60°F in summer and 35°F in winter. Pack a raincoat, prepare for the rain, and be pleasantly surprised if the sun shines.
Places to stay
I could not recommend the Clarion Collection Hotel Havnekontoret enough. It is centrally located on the harbor, offers a delicious complimentary breakfast, evening snack, and dinner, and has guest-only access to a tower overlooking the city that’s perfect for sunset. If the hotel is fully booked, consider looking into other nearby Clarion Hotels.
Radisson Blu Royal Hotel in Bryggen is another great spot on the water.
For a splurge, book a room at the 4-star Bergen Børs Hotel, located in the former stock exchange building.
Traveling to and from the airport
Taxis and Uber take approximately twenty-five minutes without traffic to get to and from the airport. A cheaper way to travel is by using the bus. Flybussen offers $14 USD one way tickets online or $17 in person through the driver and hits most main parts of the city every thirty minutes. Tickets can be used for any date and time. The trip takes around forty-five minutes and has a bathroom on board. No wifi.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY SIX: Free walking tour, Funicular
As always, the best way to start time in a new city is by participating in a free walking tour. Walk through the Bergenhus Fortress, a landmark dating back to the 13th century. It was once used as the Norwegian Nazi headquarters and now houses an outdoor concert venue where Paul McCartney and Elton John, among many stars, have performed.
See the nearby Rosenkrantz Tower, a structure with an interesting past. In 1944, a ship carrying over 120 tons of ammunition exploded, killing over 150 people and destroying almost every building in the harbor — apart from this tower, whose strong stone allowed it to withstand the blast. The explosion was so significant that the ship’s anchor was found a full two miles away (and is now a popular hike!). Nazis believed this was a purposeful attack by the resistance as it occurred on Hitler’s birthday. Norwegian authorities later determined it a complete accident. Nonetheless, because of the destruction, most buildings in the area are rebuilt and consequently don’t fit the same traditional vibe as classic Bryggen.
It should be midafternoon by the time the tour is complete. If cruise ships are in town, the area will be insanely packed. Ideally one would head to the Fløibanen funicular, a famous attraction taking guests to the top of Mount Fløyen. However, the line is likely around the corner with cruise ship passengers, so wait out the chaos by walking around the little shops in Bryggen.
Bryggen Husflid is the best known place for traditional clothing as everything is handmade in Norway — not China like many other shops. This quality comes at a price. Most sweaters range from $200-$400 USD. If this is out of your price range (myself included!), just pop in for a look.
Grab lunch at the famous Fishmarket. Although this area is notoriously overpriced, it’s worth having one meal at FishMe, located in the indoor section of the market, which serves traditional Norwegian classics like fish stew, salmon sushi, and king crab.
Note: Most shops, apart from the souvenir stores and art shops around Bryggen, are closed on Sundays. Restaurants and bars remain open. Plan accordingly.
Another option is to stop by the hidden and single-roomed Theta Museum, open only from 2–4pm every Tuesday, Saturday, and Sunday from June through August. The entrance fee is $8 USD/person and includes a free “tour” every thirty minutes. Learn about the Theta group, a Nazi resistance movement formed by a small collection of college students between 1939 to 1942. They communicated with the exiled Norwegian government in England to pass along key information and used the tiny room as their clandestine headquarters. The space was discovered when a portly Nazi officer conducting a raid in the area fell through the HQ’s roof. Theta members were then forced to flee to England, some walking weeks through Norway and Sweden before arriving in the UK. Two later perished — one in the military and another in a concentration camp.
Many have mixed reviews about this museum. The “tours” are more of a seated lecture lasting around thirty minutes that I found very interesting but my father complained it lacked in detail. Only visit if WWII is something that truly interests you.
Once crowds disperse the city around 3–4pm, head to the Fløibanen entrance.
HACK: Skip the funicular ticket line by using the machines tucked into the right hand side of the entrance. Tickets are $16 USD per person round trip or $8.5 USD one way. The 100-year-old ride takes around five minutes to reach the top, where a restaurant with drinks, food, and ice cream awaits — along with gorgeous views of the city.
Instead of taking the cable car back to Bryggen, the best way to explore the area is to walk 3km down through a beautiful park, Bergens Fjellstrekninger. This takes approximately forty minutes depending on the number of stops taken. Follow signs to the city center and enjoy the slide at the bottom which is mostly for kids but favorited by adults as well.
Note: One could flip this schedule and take the funicular in the morning before the crowds arrive then complete a walking tour in the afternoon. However, it’s better to take your time strolling through the park, which is why I’d recommend commencing the walk later in the day.
Finish the day walking through Bergen’s narrow streets to Taperia Tapas & Pinxos, a delicious place with outdoor seating and tasty sangria. For a post-dinner drink, stop at one of the many bars on the same street — which is adorable and worth a stroll by.
DAY SEVEN: Fjord tour
If not fjord’d out, book a four-hour late morning tour of the Mostraumen Fjord, which provides a different landscape than the areas of Flåm and Balestrand. This area is far narrower and less visited, so it is absolutely breathtaking.
Once back on land, consider taking a ride on another cable car, Ulriken, located a short bus ride outside of the city and offering completely different views than the Fløibanen. Another option is to visit the famous Kode Museum, a series of four different buildings offering exhibits on Norwegian art, music, modern society, and history. Note that the entire complex is closed on Mondays.
An attraction to avoid is the Gestapo Museum, housed in the former Gestapo jail. Everything is in Norwegian so a short pamphlet is provided to non-natives that is both confusing and lackluster. Skip this.
Elect to fly out of the city at night or spend the final evening bopping around town and enjoying the lively scene.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- 3 Kroneren Pølsebu — spot for a variety of hotdogs, including reindeer dogs with lingonberry jam and fried onions. Filled with drunk people on weekend nights.
- 26 North — part of the Radisson Blu hotel. Wouldn’t always recommend a hotel bar, but this has waterfront seating with great views. Worth a drink. Quite pricey.
- Dr. Wiesener — local lunch spot with outdoor seating and beer
- Godt Brød — Norwegian chain with great organic food (specifically the cinnamon buns)
- Fish Me — located in the Bryggen Fishmarket
- Pygmalion Økocafe & Galleri — dinner
- Taperia Tapas & Pinxos — Great sangria and tapas on a cute street
SPEND MORE TIME IN THE NORDICS
Heading to other Nordic countries? View my guides on Copenhagen, Denmark, Stockholm, Sweden, and Helsinki, Finland.
