Itinerary for six days in Macedonia
- Date visited: August 2023
- Key places to visit: Skopje, Kosovo, Lake Ohrid
- Time needed: 6 days
General Information on Macedonia
Macedonia is a landlocked nation in the southern Balkans. The country of two million residents is made up of 30% Muslim and 70% Christian, 95% of which are Christian Orthodox. It has an interesting history, filled with numerous occupiers including the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires, then eventually the Serbs under the Kingdom of Yugoslavia until 1991. These influences created a unique cultural melting pot.
Now its own country, it faces backlash from neighboring Greece who claims rights over the name “Macedonia.” As a result, the country is formally named the “Republic of North Macedonia”, although its inhabitants seldom refer to it as that. For all intents and purposes, it will be referred to as “Macedonia” throughout this outline.
This guide suggests six full days in the country. Below is a quick overview of the proposal:
- Day 1: Skopje
- Day 2: Skopje, day trip to Kosovo
- Day 3: Skopje, optional day trip
- Day 4: Lake Ohrid
- Day 5: Lake Ohrid
- Day 6: Lake Ohrid
- Day 7: Departures
Note: If short on time, two nights each in Skopje and Lake Ohrid will suffice.
Communication
Macedonian is the main language, with Turkish, Russian, German, and English in close running. Although not everyone speaks English fluently, most younger Macedonians know enough to communicate with tourists. Conversely, the older generations who were raised under communist occupation speak very little English.
The Cyrllic alphabet was developed in Macedonia in the 9th century. Today, residents write and speak the Macedonian language using both the Latin and Cyrllic alphabets. Each version has its own distinct pronunciation. As a result, street signage across the country outlines both versions, one on top of the other. In terms of general communication, everyone has their own preference. Our tour guide, for example, takes notes in school using Cyrllic but prefers to text in Latin. His friend, however, responds to his Latin-written texts consistently in Cyrilic. They are interchangeable.
Weather
Macedonia experiences more than 300 sunny days per year. It is exceptionally hot in the summer and rainy in the winter. I visited during August and although it was uncomfortably hot at times, I still enjoyed my experience. The overall best time to visit is during the shoulder season from April through June and September through November.
Safety
Macedonia is a very safe country. Pickpockets and petty theft in central areas, especially the markets in Skopje, are the only causes for concern. Families are known to roam the main square with their children even past midnight, particularly to enjoy the milder night temperatures in summer. Be smart and you’ll be fine.
Traveling around
The best way to travel around Macedonia is by car, especially when visiting Lake Ohrid where public transportation is limited and key sites and hikes have reduced accessibility.
Wifi
In 2006, Macedonia was the first country in the world to have full access to a wireless broadband connection. Years later, fast wifi is available in most establishments.
Payment
The main currency is the Macedonian Denar, though euros are also exchanged. Cash is widely preferred so credit cards are accepted about half the time.
Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything is charged in the local currency when in person.
Drinking Water
Josef Broz Tito, the leader of Yugoslavia, invested millions of dollars into water infrastructure during his time in office. As a result, mountain springs cleanly feed water systems in the entire country, so it is safe to drink from the sink. Cities provide free public drinking fountains to reduce waste and bars/restaurants provide complimentary tap water.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected at restaurants and bars but consider tipping 10% if the service is beyond exceptional. Tour guides should be tipped at least 10%.
Skopje (pronounced “scope-ee-yah”)
Time needed: 2 days
General Information
Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, dates back to 4000 BC and is one of the longest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. Over 80% of this antiquity, however, was destroyed in the 1963 earthquake that killed over 1,000 people, injured close to 4,000 and left more than 200,000 homeless. Unwilling and unable to spend much on rebuilding, the government paid for the construction of brutalist, plain architecture made mostly of concrete. This construction lasted until 2014 when a new nationalistic government was elected with a goal to put the country and city on the world map. The Skopje 2014 Project, a controversial urban renewal endeavor, involved rebuilding many of the Soviet-era buildings to look more modern and attract tourists as well as add scores of monuments depicting historical Macedonian figures. As a result, the Marriott, among many chains, entered the country along with other Western additions like red double decker buses.
This construction was not without its faults. Citizens hailed the project as irresponsible as the government spent an estimated €500 million while the average person’s salary was €500/month and the country had very high unemployment and poverty rates. The project completely halted in 2018 when the Prime Minister spearheading the project, Nikola Gruevski, fled the country to avoid corruption charges.
Skopje has since been in an interesting state. One side of the Vardar River, the body of water dividing the city, is covered in face-lifted buildings and monuments reminiscent of a more Westernized culture. The other side reflects Ottoman era markets and restaurants with more of a Middle-eastern vibe. Overall, it is a culturally layered city that has yet to be discovered by the greater Western world.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
Like most places in Europe, Airbnb offers numerous affordable options. For this excursion, we opted to stay in Hotel London B&B in the city center which offered free breakfast, friendly staff, and a great location next to the main square. Skopje Marriott Hotel is also recommended.
The country is very hot in the summer and most buildings are over 500 years old, so AC is never promised. Make extra strides to ensure it’s included. If renting a car, confirm the accommodation includes parking as well for the city has tiny streets and limited parking.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY ONE: Free Walking Tour
The best way to explore a city for the first time is to embark on a free walking tour. GuruWalk offers informative and interesting tours every day of the week. Start in Macedonia Square, the largest square in the country and one that boasts numerous monuments from the Skopje 2014 Project. The most recognizable of the structures is the one in the center, officially called the “Warrior on a Horse” but locally referred to as Alexander the Great.
Walk along the city’s main pedestrian road, Macedonia Street. Visit the Memorial House of Mother Theresa, a free exhibit depicting her personal diaries, pictures, and Nobel Peace Prize, among many things. Stroll past the former railway station, destroyed in the 1963 earthquake and yet to be rebuilt due to lack of funds. A clock permanently reflecting the time that the earthquake hit — 5:17am — hangs above the remaining wall of the station, memorializing those that passed in the destruction.
Finally, pass over the Stone Bridge, a cultural walkway built in 1451 by Ottomans atop Roman-era foundations that connects the Old Bazaar to the more modernist part of the city.
Depending on the time of day the tour is taken, it will either be lunch or dinner time by the time it finishes. The best way to experience the Old Bazaar is at night, when the city comes alive with street vendors, music, and locals. So if it’s lunch time, hold off on exploring this area until the evening. Stop quickly by the Pit Bazaar, the largest and oldest produce market in the country (which closes early), then walk to the Debar Maalo neighborhood. My boyfriend almost got pickpocketed in the bazaar so stay alert.
Debar Maalo, the bohemian section of town and one of the oldest parts of the city, is known for its cafes and restaurants. Try local Macedonian at Kafan Debar Maalo or Skopsi Merak or bop into one of the many other cafes in the area. There’s not much to do here aside from eat, so don’t feel like you need to dedicate too much time exploring this district.
After lunch, consider several options. Walk to the Kale Fortress, a city landmark dating back to the 6th century that offers beautiful views of the city. Or, visit the Macedonian Holocaust Museum and learn about the atrocities that were inflicted on the Jewish population in the country. Close to three thousand families were sent to the Treblinka Concentration Camp in Poland during World War II. Now, the country is home to only four hundred Jewish people in total. We didn’t have a chance to do this, but wish we had — so see for yourself!
When the sun has finally set, head back to the Old Bazaar to experience true Macedonian culture. The bazaar, teeming with more of a Middle Eastern and Ottoman Empire vibe, is filled with cafes, traditional fare, street vendors, and shops. My favorite shop is Skopje Slippers or “Uskup”. Owned by the same family for generations, it sells homemade, intricately detailed women’s sandals and bags at affordable prices.
Because many Macedonians are Muslim and therefore don’t drink alcohol, the cafe scene is lively and bustling. Cuba Coffee and Cafe Ottoman are two of the best places to sit and people watch. Baklava Nexho is a local favorite for sweets.
Though some Muslim restaurants adhere strictly to their religion and don’t sell alcohol, others are more “modern” and cater to tourists. Restaurant Beerhouse An and Merkez are two of the best in the area — and both sell liquor if that’s a priority. At Merkez, be sure to order their specialties — slow baked beans and kebabs. For a post-dinner bar with live music on the weekends, hit Pivnica Star Grad, Old Town’s favorite brewery.
DAY TWO: Day trip to Kosovo
Established in 2008, Kosovo is the second youngest country in the world. Although not officially recognized by the UN and other powers like Serbia and Russia (they believe it seceded illegally), a majority of countries acknowledge its existence.
These conflicts mostly stem from the Kosovo War fought between the Albanian Muslims and Christian Serbs between 1998 to 1999. Serbians viewed the region of Kosovo as their own. In efforts to officially gain control, they began a battle of ethnically cleansing its Muslim population. The war ended when NATO bombed Yugoslavia, forcibly leading to a peace treaty. Unfortunately by that time, close to fourteen thousand people were killed and over 1.5 million displaced.
Despite its harrowing past, the country has recovered immensely and is very safe. The only place to avoid is the northern area on the border with Serbia where tensions continue to rise. It’s also worth mentioning that it’s not permitted for tourists to travel from Kosovo directly to Serbia, so there is no reason for travelers to be near this border anyway.
The best way to truly explore Kosovo is not by taking a day trip but by spending several days in its borders. However, this is difficult to do as most if not all car rental agencies prohibit taking vehicles into the country, making it hard to travel freely. Instead, rent a car to travel within the country upon arrival or do as we did and go with a tour.
The two main places to visit are Prizren for its culture (1–2 days) and Peja for its outdoors (2 days). Pristina, the capital, can be skipped. That being said, if you’re like us and are limited on time, a day trip to the country will suffice. It’s worth going even if for a little.
Plus Travel Skopje offers an affordable private day trip to Pristina and Prizren with a driver and guide. We really wanted to do Peja, not Pristina, but time and distance didn’t allow for it. Larger tours are possible but we try to avoid these as they’re often overcrowded and less specialized for a relatively similar price.
Note: Even though this is a day trip, a passport is still required. In addition, the only accepted form of currency is the Euro. Macedonian Denars are not permitted. Credit cards are rarely accepted. Don’t forget these before leaving Skopje!!
The tour begins ninety minutes from Skopje in Pristina with a walking tour of the urban, graffiti-covered capital. See remnants of the Kosovo War and its indelible impact on the nation. Learn why the country is majority Muslim with just 5% Serbian Orthodox. Dive into why citizens don’t refer to themselves as “Kosovars” but actually Albanians due in part to their deep brotherhood with Albania. This is also the reason why the official language is Albanian. Pass by a statue of Bill Clinton — a local “hero” — hilariously located next to a pantsuit shop called “Hillary.” Overall this portion of the tour only lasts an hour as the city is — quite frankly — bland with not much to see. The more interesting attraction is Prizren, an hour’s drive away.
In Prizren, stop for a traditional meal at one of the cute restaurants along the river. Then continue the tour of the area with the same guide. This is considered one of the most beautiful Balkan cities and reflects more of a Turkish and Ottoman-era vibe. Though I didn’t feel it was the prettiest, I still loved the history and middle eastern feel, resembling the likes of Sarajevo, Bosnia.
At the end of the day drive the three hours back over the border to Skopje. The typical return time is around 7:30pm. If energized, walk to the Stone Bridge to grab a drink in one of the pirate ships that line the water. I’m still confused as to why these exist considering the country is landlocked, but I’m told these have no meaning and are purely for entertainment.
DAY THREE: Second day trip [optional]
For day three, you have the option to either explore more of Skopje, head right to Lake Ohrid, or embark on another day trip outside of the city. We didn’t have time to do this, but one of the most popular day trips is to Matka Canyon, just one hour away. It offers hikes, boat tours, and other outdoor excursions. I heard mixed reviews about this area. One of our guides said it is a must do, while other tourists said it was far too crowded.
Another option is to take a tour of a local Romani Gypsy community through Free Skopje Tours. At €25, this tour isn’t free, but it’s the only tour of its kind that I’ve seen. I wish I had known about this ahead of time as we would’ve made it a point to do this.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
After two nights in Skopje, pack up and head to Ohrid. As described above, the easiest way to travel the three hours is by car — and a vehicle is really necessary to fully explore the area. However, it is possible to get to Ohrid by bus or guided tour. I wouldn’t recommend doing a day tour as there is so much more to see than what twelve hours allows. Spend at least two days traveling through this gorgeous region.
Lake Ohrid
Time needed: 2–3 days
General Information
UNESCO-protected, four million years old Lake Ohrid is one of the oldest lakes in the world and the deepest in the Balkans. It is one of the globe’s most bio-diverse, with over 50% of the area’s fauna found nowhere else on earth. In addition, it touches both Macedonia and Albania.
The town of Ohrid (on the Macedonian side) is known for many things, in particular is the fact that it was once home to 365 churches — one for every day of the year. It’s one of the busiest areas around the lake, offering numerous bars and restaurants, nightlife, shops, and of course — churches.
This area is a summer destination spot for Macedonians and few outside tourists — at least for now. It’s a really cool spot to experience how Macedonians spend their time off and was my favorite part of my trip to the country. It is worth mentioning, however, that the beaches across the lake aren’t anything to write home about. In other words, if you’re looking for a typical beach vacation, this isn’t it. Most beaches are narrow, crowded, and filled with pebbles. Time is better spent seeing the beautiful lake from a boat, hiking trail, or restaurant deck.
Note: It would have been cool to explore both sides of the lake — the Macedonian and Albanian side. If I had more time, I wish we could’ve done this. Several boat companies offer transfers between the two sides and it’s also easy to drive, so consider this if time permits.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
Lake Ohrid offers various types of accommodations. Ohrid has numerous Airbnbs and hotels that are walking distance to all the action. Villas and resorts, all differently priced, line the water’s edge outside of town for a more quiet atmosphere. The tiny village of Trpejca, known as the “St. Tropez of Lake Ohrid” is another calm place to stay, with little b&b’s and great views of the lake. It’s just a thirty minute drive from Ohrid.
We stayed at Vila Mina halfway between Trpjeca and Ohrid and didn’t love our experience so I wouldn’t recommend it. Although the staff were lovely, the room was smelly, old, and not worth the price. If we were to do it again, I’d stay in either Trpejca or Ohrid — Trpejca for a relaxing experience and Ohrid for its proximity to bars and restaurants. It’s better to be closer to the action than be forced to drive everywhere. If staying on the water is preferred, it’s only worth it if you splurge for a nice resort with private and direct beach access. The cheaper resorts, like ours, are a waste.
Regardless of where you stay, ensure the accommodation has AC as the weather can be unbearably hot in the summer. And if driving — secure a place with a parking spot as parking is next to impossible.
HOW TO BEST SPEND YOUR TIME:
DAY FOUR: Explore Ohrid
Take your time getting to Ohrid, as it is often crowded from 10am-2pm with day trippers. If staying outside Ohrid and need to drive in, know that temporary parking is limited but feasible. Parking attendants walk up and down assigned sections of the streets, collecting hourly parking fees, which average about $1 USD/hour, cash only.
Exploring the entire area takes no more than two hours, not including stops for food and shopping. Pass along the water’s edge towards Potpesh Beach, a long but thin strip of pebbled beach with chairs, umbrellas, paddle boards, and kayaks for rent. Next visit the Church of St. Jovan Kaneo. Dating back to the 13th century, this is the most photographed spot in all of Macedonia as it has gorgeous views of the town and lake. Then head to Tsar Samuel’s Fortress, located 100m above the lake. It is the largest medieval fortification in the country, dating back to at least 209 BC. Entrance is $2 USD cash.
The Ancient Theatre of Ohrid, once the site of gladiator fights and public executions, is close by. It’s used today for concerts and performances. Stop by for a quick look.
Hop back to the city center to walk around the main pedestrian street, Bulevar Makedonski Prosvetiteli. Though touristy and filled with clubs, women’s clothing stores, and random shops — it’s interesting to see.
One of the signature items to purchase in Ohrid are the “Ohrid pearls.” Even Queen Elizabeth had some in her private collection! Unlike other pearls, these are lake emulsions containing the scales of the local plashica fish. Contrary to what many stores advertise, there are only two shops who produce these authentically and they are both family owned. The other stores sell fakes from China — so don’t waste your time. Head right to my favorite of the two, Ohrid Pearls Filevi, across from Silver Pearls Bellusso — another falsely advertised store. Everything in Ohrid Pearls Filevi is reasonably priced and the owner and her daughter — whose family has owned the store for generations — are extremely kind. Cash only.
Galleria Collarette is another shop worth visiting. A photographer takes an up close picture of your eye and blows it up into a picture or digital frame. It’s really cool to see the intricate design and colors of your iris — and certainly a unique memento.
For a late lunch, head to Kaneo Restaurant on the water and enjoy traditional Macedonian paired with a local Skopska beer. Spend the rest of the day shopping, hopping on one of the many boats, or lounging at the small Kaneo Beach. For dinner, dine at either Tavola Bianca, a private three-table restaurant in Ohrid where reservations are required or Restaurant Lipa, a hotspot just a fifteen minute drive outside of town towards Trpejca. In addition, I never went out, but heard Ohrid has a party scene. Consider doing as the locals do and taking a night out on the town.
DAY FIVE: Galičica National Park, Naum, & Trpejca
Today’s the day to experience nature in the beloved Galičica National Park, an hour outside Ohrid. The Magaro Peak Hike, the most popular in the park, is an exceptional way to see the lake from a bird’s eye view. Arrive at the parking lot before 8am to avoid paying the national park entrance fee and experiencing the blazing afternoon sun. We went during peak summer and the trail had plenty of parking with very few crowds — the complete opposite of other major European hikes! The road to get to the trailhead is very paved and easy.
The loop itself is 5.5 miles, takes three hours for fit hikers, and is very well marked. It does not have any bathrooms or water sources and tends to have loose rocks and tall grass so bring the right supplies and shoes.
Magaro starts in a wooded area then turns to a large pasture. A sign at the beginning of this section indicates two different routes. One trail is straight up hill, shorter, but takes longer while the other is more winding and still relatively steep but easier. Choose your destiny, just note that both have multiple false summits. A spectacular summit view awaits. One can see both Lake Ohrid and nearby Lake Prespa. It’s gorgeous, rewarding, and absolutely worth the sweat.
After, drive to the Eastern Orthodox Monastery of St. Naum on the border of Albania. The structure sits at the end of a large tourist complex that’s both tacky and pretty. The complex consists of a beach, a series of cabanas and swimming areas, multiple restaurants, cheap trinket shops, and of course the monastery. It seems as if the county capitalized on the beauty of St. Naum by building an unrelated Disneyland around it. It’s a weird mixture of history and lake tourism and is the second most visited place in the area apart from the actual town of Ohrid. Despite its oddities, it’s cool to experience how Macedonians spend their vacations. Grab lunch on the water at one of the many restaurants like Cuba Libre or Restaurant Ostrovo.
Next head back towards Ohrid and stop at the famous “Bay of Bones.” This cultural landmark and museum depicts a replica of a Bronze and Iron age village that once sat on stilts above the lake. The entry fee is around $1 USD and exploring takes about thirty minutes. Visit in the afternoon to avoid day trippers. It’s not the most well done museum — the replicas are devoid of any signage and explanations so learning is limited. However, it’s a beautiful spot on the lake and still interesting to get a feel for how ancient Macedonians once lived.
You’ll likely be exhausted by now. Return to your accommodations for a nap and opportunity to relax before getting ready for a nice dinner in c a fishing village east of Ohrid known as the “St. Tropez of Macedonia.” Depending on where you’re staying, you’ll technically be backtracking to Trpejca but it’s worth it for a sunset meal. Arrive before 8pm as many restaurants close their kitchens early. No need to make a reservation — just head right to the water and select one of the numerous establishments on the little stretch of beach. Some of the best places to try are Trpejca Terrace Mermaide and Tavern Mrestilishte.
[OPTIONAL] DAY SIX: Enjoy the water
Spend the final day enjoying the waters of Lake Ohrid. Rent kayaks, hop on a catamaran out of Ohrid, or simply swim in the water. The day is yours to enjoy.
Note: One also has the option to depart on Day Six, however the best way to do the area justice is to take time to truly soak it all in. I’d recommend saving an additional day to experience #lakelife.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
SPEND MORE TIME IN THE BALKANS
Heading to other Balkan countries? View my guides on Slovenia, Bosnia, Durmitor National Park, Montenegro, Belgrade, Serbia, and Tirana, Albania.
