Top things to do in Belgrade, Serbia
- Dates visited: July 2023
- Time Needed: 2 days
General Information
Belgrade (or “Beograd”), the former capital of soviet Yugoslavia, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. It was once called the “white city” as the area was originally covered in white stone. This landscape changed over the years and the stone was slowly destroyed as battles for the territory occurred frequently due to its strategic location on both the Sava and Danube Rivers. In fact, the city has experienced the most battles in any other city in history — 117 — and has been bombed forty-four times. Needless to say, the architecture has changed dramatically and a typical European “old town” no longer exists. Stari Grad is technically the medieval section, though it does not have the same feel as other quintessential European cities. The architecture is more modern and the city doesn’t have as many historical sites to visit, despite its ancient past. To experience Belgrade at its finest, focus more on enjoying the immense culture of food and drinks and less on traditional sightseeing. In other words, the city is unique. It is tough, industrial, and at times gritty — but is culturally vibrant and a cool place to adventure.
Communication
Serbian is the main language. Though not everyone speaks English fluently, most younger Serbs know enough to successfully communicate with tourists. Conversely, the older generations who were raised under German and/or Soviet occupation speak Serbian, Russian, and German — and very little English.
Residents write and speak the Serbian language using both the Latin and Cyrllic alphabets. Each version has its own distinct pronunciation. As a result, street signage across the country outlines both versions, one on top of the other. In terms of general communication, everyone has their own preference. Our tour guide, for example, takes notes in school using Cyrllic but prefers to text in Latin. His friend, however, responds to his Latin-written texts consistently in Cyrilic. They are interchangeable.
Weather
Serbia has very hot, muggy summers averaging 80ºF and often with short evening showers. Its winters are snowy, bitterly cold, and average 20ºF. Avoid traveling during this chilly time.
Safety
Belgrade is a completely different place than it was during the war in the 90’s. It is now a very safe city. Pickpockets and petty theft in central areas are the only causes for concern. Be smart and you’ll be fine.
Traveling around
Uber is illegal in the entire country so one must hail a taxi or take public transportation. Pink Taxi has a rideshare app that works very well. Use it to call a taxi and select the preferred form of payment (cash or card) on the app. Once the vehicle arrives, tell the driver where to go and pay in person upon the ride’s completion.
If coming from the airport, secure a fixed rate at the taxi booth directly outside customs. This rate is applicable to all taxis in the city, regardless of company. To pay by card, confirm the cab accepts card payment ahead of hopping in.
Taking the Route 72 bus to the city center is another transport option and costs just under $1 USD.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
The three best neighborhoods to stay in are Terazije (next to Central Square), Skadarlija (the Bohemian quarter), or Dorćol (an upper class neighborhood in the “old town” section, Stari Grad). They all are within a fifteen minute walk from each other and are equally as safe and fun, so one can’t go wrong with any of the choices.
Airbnb offers a handful of great and affordable options. We stayed here in Stari Grad and loved it.
Wifi
Fast wifi is available in most establishments.
Payment
The main currency is the Serbian dinar. Credit cards are accepted approximately 75% of the time and cash is widely preferred. Some tour companies only allow cash but are flexible and accept dinars, euros, and in some cases — US dollars. Just know that ATMs only provide the dinar.
Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything in real time is charged in the local currency.
Smoking
I’m not exaggerating when I say quite literally everyone smokes in Serbia. They smoke in restaurants, cafes, on the street, everywhere! Even bus drivers will light up a smoke while driving. Just keep this in mind if you are sensitive to smoke.
Drinking Water
Tap water is safe to drink everywhere and complimentary at bars and restaurants. The city provides free public drinking fountains to encourage consumption and reduce water waste.
Cuisine
Belgrade is known for its rapidly flourishing food and drink scene. The city has no Michelin-starred restaurants but several on the general Michelin Guide. And like many Balkan countries, meat and potatoes are main staples in the Serbian diet. Key restaurants to enjoy this cuisine are listed at the bottom of this guide.
For beverages, the traditional drink of choice (and official national drink) is rakia, pronounced “rack-ee-ah.” It is made of fermented and distilled fruits — most famously plums and grapes — and is served as a shot. To add, commercialized products average around 40% ABV, while locally made rakia can range anywhere between 50–80% ABV. If hard liquor isn’t your thing but you’d like to still try it, sample the honey flavor which typically is not as strong.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected for restaurants and bars but feel free to tip 10% if the service is beyond exceptional. Tour guides, however, should be tipped at least 10%.
Top things to do (in no particular order)
Free walking tour
A free walking tour is the best way to see the city and get an idea of its vibe, history, and culture. Belgrade Free Tours offers a daily City Center tour at 10:30am and 2pm for two hours. This is the general free walking tour. It starts at Republic Square, the central town square, then passes places like the Belgrade Fortress and the surrounding Kalemegdan Park which overlooks the Danube and Sava rivers, the Bohemian quarter, and the Republic Square — the central town square.
Belgrade Free Tours offers another free option as well; the History and Heritage Walking Tour. This is slightly different as it focuses more on Serbian heritage, passing by the National Assembly and Church of St. Sava.
If short on time or prefer to do just one walking excursion, select the City Center tour as it provides more generalized information.
Cetinjska Street — Bohemian Quarter
The free city center walking tour listed above brushes through the Bohemian Quarter, but it’s worth it to loop back and spend more time here. This is a vibrant part of Belgrade filled with music, drinking, Serbian food, and culture.
Back in the 1800’s, few citizens wanted to live in this area because it had too many loud “kafanas” — traditional coffee houses and taverns. As a result, it was home to mainly artists and actors as rent was cheap and it was close to the National Theater and nightlife. Fast forward two centuries. Now, the Bohemian Quarter is one of the most coveted places to reside; so much so that some pay almost a full month’s wages for rent. And although it’s a small section of town, it’s lively, fun, and a great place to hang out.
The quarter is a perfect neighborhood to try traditional Serbian food and listen to local music. Recommended restaurants include Zlatni Bokal and Restaurant “Šešir moj” where the best thing on the menu is the meat platter. Regardless of what is selected, one aspect is common amongst them all — rakia is prevalent. Don’t miss out on the culture — take a shot!
Bands also rotate across various restaurants, playing Serbian music to those willing to listen — and pay. Some restaurants even offer bands for free on certain days so try to find one of those places first.
If you happen to see a drunk man with his shirt ripped open, don’t be alarmed. This is part of Serbian culture. When a dad becomes a father for the first time, he and his friends hit the Bohemian Quarter to celebrate. Part of the festivities involve ripping off his shirt. So if you encounter someone with this attire, know he didn’t get into a fight — he’s just a new dad. Congratulate him!
Splavovi — riverfront bars and restaurants
Belgrade is known for its partying. One of the best places to experience the nightlife is on floating riverfront bars and restaurants known as splavovi or “splav” for short. The venues range from nice restaurants and cocktail bars to the classic dives and disco-ball nightclubs. Popularity has increased so much that on New Years Eve 2023, a boat was so overcapacity that it sank. No one was harmed and it sits in the harbor still. I guess seven hundred people on a barge that fits three hundred isn’t the best move. Regardless, do as the locals do and have a drink down by the water.
Kneza Mihaila
Kneza Mihaila is a famous pedestrian shopping avenue and one of the busiest streets in Belgrade. Running through Stari Grad, it boasts street performers, art displays, trendy shops, and souvenir stores galore. Take a quick stroll and see for yourself.
Zeleni Vanac Farmer’s Market
The Zeleni Vanac Farmer’s Market is the largest and oldest green market in the city, selling not only produce but also household goods and trinkets. Locals frequent here to purchase cheap and organically grown fruits and vegetables. These airy stalls, located near the main bus station, are open every day from 7am-5pm.
Church of St. Sava
Situated about a thirty minute walk outside of the city center in the Vračar neighborhood is the Church of St. Sava, one of the world’s largest Orthodox churches. I’m not enthusiastic about religion but was very impressed by this structure, which is also the city’s most recognizable landmark. Its vastness and grandeur was spectacular. It’s worth going — even for just a fifteen minute meander.
Nikola Tesla Museum
The Nikola Tesla Museum is an ode to the famous Serbian-American inventor of AC (alternating current) power, the Tesla coil, and AC motors, among many things. His contributions gave society the electric power system commonly used today. Visit to discover more about his upbringing, studies, and creation of over three hundred patents. Forty-five minute guided tours are offered every hour and included in the $7.50 USD entrance ticket.
Note: The Church of St. Sava and the Nikola Tesla Museum are in close proximity to each other so pair these visits together.
Museum of Yugoslavia
The Museum of Yugoslavia chronicles the creation of the socialist Kingdom of Yugoslavia after World War II, its leadership under the “forever president” Josip Broz Tito, and eventual downfall in 1992. Tito is even buried on site; his grave on full display. We took the “Once Upon a Time in Yugoslavia” tour with Belgrade Tours and weren’t impressed. Our guide dispelled so much tangled information that it was hard to understand the true history of the time period. Instead, visit the museum on your own or take a driving tour of the key Yugoslavia sites in Belgrade — including the museum — with the highly rated Yugotour. See more than just the museum and get a better feel for life under Tito’s presidency.
Zemun
Zemun, a section of Belgrade that was once the border town between the Austrian and Ottoman empires, is a unique part of the city that I wish we had time to explore. It’s known for its old town charm and rich history. It can be accessed by train or bus (a thirty minute trip) or private taxi (a ten minute drive). The best way to explore once there is on foot. Belgrade Free Tours, one of the many tour companies with trips to Zemun, offers a free walking tour every Friday at 2:30pm or upon request.
Try the numerous bars and restaurants (outside of the Bohemian Quarter and Splavovi)
Our guide joked with us that Serbian culture is filled with drinking and having fun because Serbs don’t like to take life too seriously. With all the chaos their country has experienced in the past several hundred years, society now just wants to relax. As a result, the city has far more exciting bars and restaurants to experience than general landmarks and museums. Not to mention, drinking in public is legal. For tourists, the bar and restaurant scene should be a huge focus of the trip.
So — spend time at some of the best bars in Serbia. Znak Pitanja, Serbian for “question mark,” was built in 1823 and is the oldest bar in the city. It just celebrated over two hundred years in existence. The owners could not decide what to name it and temporarily referred to the bar as “question mark”, eventually declaring the name permanent. Enjoy traditional Serbian food and drink in an authentic atmosphere. The kitchen closes at 8pm.
Docker Brewery and Beer Garden is a great local brewery about ten minutes from the Bohemian Quarter with at least thirty beers on tap.
Another fun bar to visit is Kafe Bar Blaznavac, a local hideout serving shareable cocktails in liter pitchers. The espresso martinis are also delicious. Just don’t try to play any card games onsite. The bartenders stopped us from taking part in games as they’ve had issues with gambling in the past so police keep a close watch. Who knew.
Wander aimlessly!
Belgrade has thousands of historic, quirky, and at times beautifully grungy streets ready to be explored. Take time to simply wander aimlessly and discover all the city has to offer.
While doing so, notice that many roads have two names — one from the Communist era and another from before (which has since been restored). Although the names have been updated, the Communist names are still included in efforts to assist the elderly. Many lived fifty plus years with these street names so it’s hard for them to revert back to the pre-commie age.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Docker Brewery and Beer Garden — 30+ beers on tap
- Iva New Balkan Cuisine — on Michelin Guide
- JaM — on Michelin Guide
- Kafarna Yugoslavia — traditional Serbian restaurant
- Kafe Bar Blaznavac — liter cocktails
- Lebovski — Serbian bakery chain selling the freshest burek (the most famous breakfast pastry in Serbia)
- Milky — trendy breakfast spot serving palačinke (traditional Serbian pancakes)
- Popara Pub — dive bar down the street from Kafe Bar Blaznavac
- Restaurant “Šešir moj” — Bohemian quarter, traditional Serbian
- Znak Pitanja — question mark bar, oldest bar in the city
SPEND MORE TIME IN THE BALKANS
Heading to other Balkan countries? View my guides on Slovenia, Bosnia, and Durmitor National Park in Montenegro.
Transferring to Sarajevo, Bosnia? Consider taking a private transfer with Meet Bosnia Tours. Stop at three main places between East Bosnia and West Serbia (where most of the 90’s war took place) while listening to your guide talk about their experience during the chaos. We valued our driver’s input more than the stops themselves and skipped the 2.5 hour historic train ride as its reviews were mediocre. As a result, we had more time to dive into our guide’s past. He provided incredible insight into what it was like to be a child living in the basement of his house in Sarajevo for four years, prevented from leaving due to the threat of snipers and bombings. The stops, especially the small town of Višegrad that was the target of many attacks, simply added more explanation to his experience. The entire trip is worth the spend.
