Itinerary for two days in Durmitor National Park, Montenegro
- Date visited: July 2023
- Key places to visit: Plužine, Durmitor National Park, Žabljak
- Time needed: 2–3 days, 2 nights
General Information
Most tourists, when visiting Montenegro, focus on the country’s sunny beach towns. Though beautiful, these places are often filled with crowds and noise. We took an alternative route by hitting the Dinaric Alps and could not recommend this area more.
Encompassing the north side of the country, these alps span across many Balkan nations and are famous for separating the continental Balkan Peninsula from the Adriatic Sea. To best explore this mountainous region, visit Durmitor National Park. Durmitor, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is surrounded by three main canyons — the western Piva River Canyon, the southern Komarnica River Canyon, and the northern Tara River Canyon which is the deepest in Europe. The park has forty-eight peaks, the largest being Bobotov Kuk which rises to more than 8k feet.
As one can imagine, Durmitor is quite large for the size of the country so there are multiple ways to explore it. Most people drive the Durmitor Ring Road, using Žabljak (a mountain ski town) as their base. This takes on average 2–3 hours, runs fifty-three miles, and hits key sites such as Tara Canyon, Lake Sušic, and Sedlo Pass. A full outline of that map can be found HERE.
We elected to do something a bit different as we were coming from Mostar, Bosnia and wanted to get a better feel for local mountain life. We stayed one night in the lake town of Plužine then drove the Sedlo Pass part of the ring (labeled P14 on Google Maps) through Trsa to Žabljak. It is around thirty-five miles. This is the more scenic section of the loop that still allows one to see the best parts of the park. With numerous stops, the drive from Plužine to Žabljak averages 3–4 hours.
Note: The P14 road has two sections; one that includes Trsa and another that is more direct and skips it. Ensure that this little ghost town village is included as it has gorgeous, untouched views and is a must-see! It is only a five mile addition.
Regardless of the chosen path, know that the roads are well paved in some places and not so much in the others. Rental cars will fare fine. Another thing to note are the reckless drivers that hog the middle of the road. Take caution, drive appropriately, stick to the speed limit, and try to not get frustrated — as these drivers are ubiquitous!
This guide outlines suggestions for two full days in the mountains near Durmitor National Park. Below is a quick overview of the proposal:
- Day 1: Plužine
- Day 2: Durmitor Ring Road to Žabljak
- Day 3: Explore more of Durmitor or depart
Communication
Montenegrin is the main language, with Serbian, Croatian, Bosnian and Albanian as secondary officially recognized languages. Although not everyone speaks English fluently, most younger Montenegrins know enough to successfully communicate with tourists.
Weather
The mountains in the Dinaric Alps have a wide range of temperatures. In winter temps hover between 23°F to 39°F while in summer, they range from 59°F to 75°F. Plužine and Žabljak tend to be a bit warmer year round. The best time to travel is between June through October when snow has melted from the mountains and hiking and driving are easiest. Note that this is also the only time Sedlo Pass and the entirety of the Durmitor Ring Road are open.
Safety
Virtually no crime exists in the Montenegrin mountains. Be smart and you’ll be fine.
Traveling around
Uber is unavailable in the mountains, even in Plužine and Žabljak, and public transportation is unavailable in the National Park. The best and most flexible way to travel is by renting a car. We often use Sixt in Europe as it’s reliable and relatively affordable. Avoid GoldCar and Green Motion as they are notoriously undependable.
Before traveling the Durmitor Ring Road, fuel up on gas as the road does not have any fuel stations.
Note: If traveling across international borders, purchase a $40 USD “green card” with the car rental agency. This internationally insures the car and is mandated at border crossings. Also keep in mind that Kosovo and Bulgaria are the two Balkan countries that rental companies prohibit renters from driving into. As our contact at the rental agency put it — Kosovo has “too many international conflicts” and “cars disappear once they go into Bulgaria.” Take that with a grain of salt, but know that most companies do not operate in these countries.
Wifi
Fast wifi is available in most establishments. Cell service is also available in most places, but can be spotty in certain parts of the park.
Payment
The main currency is the euro. Cash is widely preferred, so credit cards are accepted less than half the time. Visit an ATM immediately upon arrival to play it safe.
Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything in real time is charged in the local currency.
Drinking Water
Tap water is safe to drink in all major places and complimentary at bars and restaurants. Towns provide free public drinking fountains to reduce waste. Drinking fountains are limited in the park.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected at restaurants and bars but consider tipping 10% if the service is beyond exceptional. Tour guides should be tipped at least 10%.
Plužine
- Time needed: 1 day/night
- Neighborhood to stay in: Near the lake
General Information
Plužine is an adorably tiny village of one thousand citizens and the only one located on Piva Lake. The lake — impeccably gorgeous — is twenty-six miles long and over 650 feet deep. It’s a place where few tourists explore which is even more of a reason to visit!
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
The town offers very little accommodations, so try to book ahead of time. We stayed at this Airbnb and loved it but would have preferred to stay closer to the water. Family-owned Bungalow Holiday offers cute huts next to the shore, with water activities such as paddle boarding, kayaking, and boating.
If renting a car, ensure the accommodation includes parking for the village has tiny streets and limited spots.
DAY 1: Explore Plužine
Exploring the area requires half a day. The town itself has few stores and restaurants. Everything revolves around enjoying the lake. Upon arrival, grab lunch at Restoran Sočica, a charming restaurant with an outdoor patio and views. Then head to the local pebble beach to take a dip. It’s not hard to find — just go down to the water.
Holiday Bungalows next door offers private boat tours of Piva Lake for €20 an hour, captained by one of the owning family members. Our captain took us to his brother’s little hut on the side of the lake — a place he referred to as his “personal oasis.” As he described, he spent his summers boating around the lake, running through the woods near the hut, and putzing around town. It was such a cool experience to hear about how some Montenegrins spend their summers and the views of the lake and mountains were spectacular. I can’t recommend this enough.
For dinner, enjoy local cuisine at Guesthouse Zvono, where honey wine is the specialty.
After a night in Plužine, pack up and head to Durmitor National Park along the Durmitor Ring. As described above, driving a car is the easiest way to travel through the mountains.
Žabljak
- Time needed: 1–2 days
- Neighborhood to stay in: Anywhere in or near Žabljak
General Information
Žabljak is the highest town in Montenegro and the gateway to Durmitor National Park. At close to two thousand residents, it is just slightly larger than Plužine but has far more tourists due to its proximity to main park entrances and larger cities. The town itself has a far different vibe as well. It has scores of hotels and a typical yet small main street filled with bars and restaurants that are frequented by locals and visitors alike, making it more of a mainstream destination for city dwellers.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
The town has numerous chalet hotels that are worth checking out. Airbnbs also offer great accommodations in the area for a reasonable price. Regardless, if driving — try to secure a place with a parking spot as street parking isn’t impossible but certainly limited.
DAY 2: Drive the Durmitor Ring to Žabljak, hike around Black Lake
Today’s the day to hit the Durmitor Ring. Put Plužine in the rearview and hop on the P14 road towards Trsa. Without stopping, this is just a thirty-minute drive.
Stop at the Piva Canyon Viewpoint to take a glimpse of the crystal blue river below. Pass through cool yet creepy tunnels built into actual mountains. And of course, jump out in Trsa to grab a cup of coffee and take pictures of the breathtaking surroundings. The road, although a famous thing to do in Montenegro, was surprisingly empty during our visit; so we felt like we were enjoying everything to ourselves.
After Trsa, the rest of the drive should take approximately 2–3 hours depending on the number of stops. One of my favorites was for a shack on the side of the road that sold homemade honey, cheese, and rakia. We also enjoyed a refreshing beer at a small roadside hut closer to the end of the journey. The views throughout the road are so spectacular that you will want to get out often — so plan accordingly.
Once the drive is over, check into your accommodations in Žabljak. Then choose between two main options — staying in town to rest and walk around or hike near Black Lake. Regardless of the option chosen, ensure Black Lake is included at some point in the itinerary as it is a staple of the area. If Black Lake is the choice, either drive the five minutes to the entrance or walk depending on the distance from your accommodation.
Referred to by Montenegrins as “Crno Jezero”, Black Lake is the most popular of the park’s eighteen glacial lakes and a great way to experience the area with limited time. In reality, the body of water is made of two different lakes — Big and Little Lake — connected by a narrow straight. Its name hails from the shadow that the mountains cast over the water. Although it is a must do in the area, the lake is not without its faults. Because of its necessity and easy accessibility, it is CROWDED. Parking on the one narrow street can be a nightmare, even in the evening as many visit for sunset. Consider parking relatively far from the entrance to avoid getting stuck in turnaround traffic.
Note: The entrance fee is around $5 USD/person cash. Parking is free.
Several small yet busy restaurants align the shore closest to the entrance, so grab a coffee, beer, or bite to eat before exploring. The best way to experience the area with the fewest amount of crowds is to complete the three mile loop around the perimeter. This will allow the crowds to disperse and provide the opportunity to rest in greater tranquility. The hike is extremely easy — with little to no elevation gain — so it should take around ninety minutes depending on whether or not you decide to go for a dip in the water. Another option is to rent paddle boards or kayaks and get out on the water itself.
For dinner, hop around to the numerous bars and restaurants on main street. Our favorites were Ukus Durmitora (great food), Restoran Medjed (fun patio), and the Ski Bar (amazing views).
OPTIONAL DAY 3: Explore more of Žabljak
If you didn’t get a chance to explore Black Lake the day before, now is your chance. Get up early in the morning and head right to the entrance before the crowds.
If already accomplished, either stroll around the town again, hike another local trail, ride up to Tara Canyon for river rafting, or continue on with your journey through the Balkans.
SPEND MORE TIME IN THE BALKANS
Heading to other Balkan countries? View my guides on Slovenia, Bosnia, and Belgrade, Serbia.
