Suggestions for four days in Bosnia and Herzegovina
- Date visited: July 2023
- Key places to visit: Sarajevo & Mostar
- Time needed: 4–5 days
General Information
Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country filled with rich, intense, and harrowing history. It has been populated since the Stone Ages, with the Ottomans eventually taking over and creating a major Suni-Islamic sect in the 1400’s. Strong religious ties carried through until the creation of Yugoslavia under the socialist reign of President Josip Broz Tito between 1943 to 1992. The municipalities within Yugoslavia were Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo, Montenegro, Croatia, Macedonia, and Slovenia.
An atheist, Tito restricted religion, so practicing Islam became a thing of the past (in the public eye, that is). He instead preached ethnic unity and brotherhood which is why, even with these limitations, he remained a beloved and widely respected leader. Yugoslavia was a founding member of the UN, stood as the 4th largest military force in Europe, and offered advanced complementary healthcare and education to all citizens.
This prosperity came to a swift halt after his death, especially in the municipality of Bosnia. The state, unsure how to proceed without their “forever president,” held a referendum in March of 1992 to decide if Bosnia should become its own nation. Approximately 99% of voters favored independence. Yugoslavia had officially fallen and religion flourished again.
Hatred also flourished. A small yet vicious minority known as the Serb Democratic Party (SDS) and other nationalistic forces like the Yugoslav People’s Army (JNA) swiftly protested the result of the referendum. These organizations were led by Radovan Karadžić and Slobodan Milošević respectively. Not only did these terrorist groups want to remain unified under Yugoslavia, they now had a new goal — to cleanse the territory of all Muslims. They sought “revenge” for acts committed by the Turkish Ottoman empire.
Over the course of four years, two hundred thousand people perished and two million were displaced in a systematic ethnic cleansing. The war finally ended in 1995 with the signing of the Dayton Agreement in Dayton, Ohio, brokered by President Bill Clinton.
Today, the nation bears the scars of the recent war. Buildings are covered in bullet holes and landmines are still being detected and removed. Although still in recovery, the country can finally and proudly showcase its tolerance for all religions. It now consists primarily of three faiths — Muslim Bosniaks, Catholic Croats, and Orthodox Serbians. This melting pot of cultures makes the country unique. It doesn’t feel like Western Europe at all — but more so part of the Middle East. Make it a point to visit war museums and landmarks to learn of the atrocities of the past — but also spend time indulging in the unique beauty that now exists.
This guide outlines suggestions for four full days in the country. Below is a quick overview of the proposal:
- Day 1: Sarajevo
- Day 2: Sarajevo
- Day 3: Mostar
- Day 4: Mostar
- Day 5: Departures
Communication
Bosnian is the main language. Although not everyone speaks English fluently, most younger Bosnians know enough to successfully communicate with tourists. Conversely, the older generations who were raised under German and/or Soviet occupation speak Bosnian, Russian, German — and very little English.
Weather
Bosnia has very hot, muggy summers averaging 80ºF and often with short afternoon showers, especially in Sarajevo. Mostar, further south, tends to be even hotter. The country’s winters are snowy, bitterly cold, and average 20ºF. Avoid traveling during this chilly time.
Safety
Bosnia is a completely different place than it was during the war in the 90’s. It is now a very safe country. Pickpockets and petty theft in central areas are the only causes for concern. Be smart and you’ll be fine.
Traveling around
Sarajevo and Mostar are both walkable cities. Rent a car when traveling between the two as it is cheap and allows flexibility. I frequently use Sixt in Europe as it’s reliable and relatively affordable. One can also take a train for $5 USD to each destination. The trip takes approximately two hours.
To add, Uber is unavailable in the entire country, but a fair substitute is MojTaxi. Use it to call a taxi and select the preferred form of payment (cash or card) on the app. Once the vehicle arrives, tell the driver where to go and pay in person upon the completion of the ride.
Wifi
Fast wifi is available in most establishments.
Payment
The main currency is the Bosnian mark (KM). Cash is widely preferred (even euros), so credit cards are accepted less than half the time. Just know that ATMs only provide the mark.
Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything in real time is charged in the local currency.
Drinking Water
Tap water is safe to drink in all major places and complimentary at bars and restaurants. Cities provide free public drinking fountains to reduce waste.
Legend has it, if one drinks the water from any fountain in Old Town Sarajevo, they are destined to return to the city. Sebilj Fountain is the most famous of them all, located in Old Town Stari Grad. See for yourself!
Cuisine
Bosnia focuses on four types of traditional cuisine that are a must try.
- Ćevapi — a dish with minced meat, raw white onion, and homemade cream cheese in a pita. The cream cheese is not like typical American brands. This version is far creamier, with butter and crumbled cheese whipped together. It’s delicious.
- Burek — a filo dough pastry stuffed with meat or veggies, often served for breakfast.
- Lonac — served at traditional restaurants called “aščinicas”. This national dish of Bosnia is a meat and vegetable stew cooked slowly and eaten from a pot.
- Stuffed vegetables — If there’s a vegetable that can be stuffed, Bosnians will stuff it. Frequently stuffed veggies include cabbage, onions, and peppers.
For dessert, try the Bosnian spin on baklava which uses walnuts not pistachios as walnuts are native to the area.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected at restaurants and bars but consider tipping 10% if the service is beyond exceptional. Tour guides should be tipped at least 10%.
Sarajevo
- Time needed: 2 days
- Neighborhood to stay in: Stari Grad/Old Town
General Information
Sarajevo, a small city located along the Miljacka River, is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It preaches numerous religions, primarily Judaism, Islam, Catholicism, and Orthodox Christianity. Their respective places of worship can be found within 200 meters of each other in city walls, which is why the city is nicknamed the “Jerusalem of the Balkans.” It’s also another reason why the country feels more like the Middle East and less like Western Europe.
To add, Sarajevo was the capital of the territory of Bosnia in the former Yugoslavia. As a result, it was the epicenter of chaos during the Bosnian conflict and was held under siege by Serbian paramilitary forces between 1992 to 1996. This period was the longest siege in the history of modern warfare and unfortunately, what the city is most famous for today.
Sarajevo is encircled by beautiful hills, making it an easy target for Serbian forces to surround with snipers and bombs. Instead of using planes, they strategically set up stations in the hills and used special bombs designed to start massive fires. An average of 329 bombs were dropped daily on the city, with the highest toll in a day being one bomb every twenty-two seconds. As a result, places like City Hall, areas of worship, historic Ottoman-era Old Town, and schools were reduced to rubble. Citizens were forced to either flee their homes or hide in basements and makeshift bunkers for years. One of our guides described growing up as a child and not leaving his basement for months, his family obliged to generate electricity with a bike and wires. He could not go to school, play with friends, or experience fresh air. He even witnessed the murder of two of his best friends, both under the age of ten.
During this conflict, over 50,000 people were injured and over 12,000 lost their lives, including 1,600 children. In addition, 40% of all kids reported to have experienced snipers shooting directly at them.
I don’t bring these experiences and facts up to dissuade one from visiting Sarajevo — it’s a very safe city now. Instead, it’s necessary to shed light on the intensity of the conflict. Many argue the reason it occurred for as long as it did was because of the global public’s lack of awareness and care. Most people today are not even aware of the city’s dark history. Learning about the war will inevitably be a huge part of “sightseeing” in the city — and an exceptionally important piece.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
The best area of the city to stay in is “Stari Grad” or Old Town. Hotel Sana is a nice place for a splurge. Airbnb also offers a handful of great and affordable options. We stayed on one of the oldest streets in the city in this apartment and loved it. The only flaw? No AC. The country becomes very hot in the summer and most buildings are over 500 years old, so AC is never promised. Don’t mess up like we did and ensure AC is included in the chosen accommodation.
If renting a car, ensure the accommodation includes parking as well for the city has tiny streets and limited parking.
Top things to do (in no particular order)
Take part in a free walking tour
As I always say, the best way to see a city is by taking a free walking tour. Meet Bosnia offers an engaging and information tour every day at 10:30am or 3pm for two hours. Walk across the famous Latin Bridge where Archduke Ferdinand was assassinated in 1914, starting the first World War. Learn about the harrowing times in the 90’s during the Siege of Sarajevo, stopping by the Sarajevo Roses — red resin-marked pavement across the city marking where grenades fell and killed people. Sarajevo is filled with a harsh and intense history that is worth spending time delving into.
Visit the museums
Because of all of this history, Sarajevo offers numerous museums that can’t be missed. A majority of these attractions focus on the Bosnian War. You’d be doing yourself a disservice to travel all the way to the Balkans and not visit at least one of these museums — though I’d try to visit two or more.
The top Bosnian war-focused museums are as follows:
- Museum of Crimes Against Humanity & Genocide — This provides an overarching depiction of the entire conflict, from the beginning days of the fighting through the Dayton Agreement that officially ended the war in 1995.
- Gallery 11/07/95 — A photo art museum concentrated primarily on the 1995 genocide in Srebrenica. After the UN safe haven of Srebrenica was overrun by Serb military forces, over eight thousand men and boys were systematically executed. Bosnian aid workers using DNA techniques are still digging through mass graves to uncover the missing. Consequently, Bosnia is the global leader in finding missing people. Purchase a ticket and a necessary audio guide for an additional small fee. Tickets are good for two days.
- Siege of Sarajevo Museum — This collection outlines the history around the city’s siege lasting from ’92 to ’96 and the experience of residents trapped in the city walls.
- War Childhood Museum — A memorabilia exhibit highlighting the experiences of children during times of war. It is not just about the Bosnian conflict but wars all over the world, showcasing how children persevere in adversity and are able to still find joy even through the chaos. Artifacts include items like toys, drawings, and articles of clothing, among many things. So many children have donated pieces that items on display are rotated out every three months.
All of these exhibits have lengthy, jaw dropping captions under each picture, detailing a part of history or a specific victim’s experience (though less so at the War Childhood Museum). This can get very overwhelming because of the harrowing gravity of the conflict. If short on time, pencil in at least the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity & Genocide because it is more encompassing of the entire conflict and less granular towards a certain aspect of the war. The Siege of Sarajevo museum is very similar to the Crimes Against Humanity exhibit so if only time for two, select the former and one of the others. The Gallery 11/07/95 and War Childhood Museum are both unique.
Regardless of the museum(s) selected, tickets for each are roughly $10 USD. Touring each individual space takes an hour or less.
Shop the markets
A fun way to explore and better understand Bosnian culture is to wade through the numerous open air markets in Old Town. Baščaršija, one of the main markets, dates back to the Middle Ages. Each street used to focus on a specific industry. For example — it once had a “coppersmith” street, “shoemaker” street, and “tailor” street. Today, everything is mixed and stalls sell keepsakes like woven rugs, Turkish coffee sets, jewelry, and items made out of ammo from the war. Some coppersmiths even took bomb casings and made them into beautifully decorated vases. Just note the Gazi Husrev-beg’s Bezistan, the primary indoor section in town, claims to sell designer items. In reality, they’re all fakes.
One of the most famous markets to visit is just outside Old Town called Pijaca Markale. Now a local fruit and vegetable market, it was once the site of two major bombings during the Siege of Sarajevo. Over one hundred people in total were killed between the two and more than 200 wounded. These attacks prompted Bill Clinton to initiate NATO air strikes against the Serb forces, leading to the end of the war.
Ride the Trebević Cable Car
The Trebević Cable Car, also known as the Sarajevo Cable Car, is adored by both locals and tourists. For $11 USD round trip, take the quick ride up and enjoy views of the city and neighboring mountains. Then walk over to the abandoned bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. During the Siege of Sarajevo, it was used as a military barrack for the Serb forces. After the war, locals used it as their graffiti canvas. We didn’t get a chance to go here and I’m disappointed we didn’t as we heard it is a really cool place to explore.
Note: The cable car does not operate in any type of storm and is open from 12pm-9pm on Monday and 9am-9pm every other day.
Walk through the Alifakovac Cemetery
The Alifakovac Cemetery, one of the largest in Sarajevo, is the final resting place of many of the defenders and victims of the Siege of Sarajevo. Notice that many of the tombstones have deceased dates between ‘92-’96. It’s a somber place to visit, but worth going to pay respects.
Enjoy the Fall of Yugoslavia Tour
As one can tell, Sarajevo is filled with a deep and terrifying history. Learn more about the end of Soviet Yugoslavia and the ongoings during the Bosnian war on Meet Bosnia’s Fall of Yugoslavia Tour. For around $30 USD, hop in a van and visit key areas outside of the city including the Yellow Fortress, former military barracks, and the Sarajevo War Tunnel. This 800m tunnel, now a war museum, is located near the international airport and is almost impossible to access on your own as it is on a bumpy and confusing road with little signage. Ensure entry with this tour and learn how the infrastructure was used to smuggle in weapons, food, medical supplies, and humans, among many things.
Experience the food culture
Sarajevo prides itself on its traditional food — and man is it cheap! Take time to enjoy the numerous restaurants in the city, especially the famous Inat Kuca, which is nicknamed the “House of Spite.” Back in the days of the Austro-Hungarian empire, leadership asked the owner to give his house and land to the city in order for them to build a new City Hall. The owner stubbornly refused. He finally agreed once they promised to relocate his house across the water and recreate it, brick by brick, exactly as it once was — with the exact same materials — plus a hefty sum of gold. It is now a cute little restaurant on the water with great local beer. Cash only.
Other restaurants are as follows -
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Ćevabdžinica Mrkva — traditional dinner
- Ćevabdžinica Nune — cash only traditional lunch, serves the best Ćevapi
- Konoba Fakat — dinner
- Restaurant Kibe Mahala — panoramic views of the city
- Restaurant Klopa — fresh organic food
After two nights in Sarajevo, pack up and head two hours south to fairytale Mostar. As described above, the easiest way to travel to Mostar is by car, but a train is also an option.
Mostar
- Time needed: 1–2 days
- Neighborhood to stay in: Old Town
General Information
Mostar is a fairytale town known as being the crossroads between Muslim Bosnia and Catholic Herzegovina. It’s made famous by its Ottoman-era Mostar Bridge (“Stari Most”) which crosses over the Neretva River to connect two parts of the city. Many tourists visit as a day trip from Sarajevo or Split, Croatia. We read that only a day was necessary to fully explore the town. This couldn’t be farther from the truth! We really needed two days to dive in as the village offers more than expected and a main draw is to swim and relax; which can’t be done in a quick trip. In fact; one of my friends liked it so much she stayed for three weeks! That being said, take your time. Meander, taste, swim, and enjoy.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
Airbnbs offer great accommodations in the area for a reasonable price. Regardless of where you stay, ensure the accommodation has AC as the weather can be unbearably hot in the summer. And if driving — secure a place with a parking spot as parking is next to impossible.
Top things to do (in no particular order)
Enjoy a free walking tour
Take a free walking tour with Sheva Walking Tours to learn more about Mostar’s wild past. Dive into facts about the Mostar Bridge — like the fact that it is
over twenty-nine meters long and over twenty-nine meters high. Or that unfortunately the structure that stands today is a replica. The original was destroyed by shelling during the Bosnian War in 1993 and rebuilt in 2004.
Listen to the perspective of a local over the course of two hours and comprehend how Mostar came to be the fairytale town it is now. Just ensure that sturdy shoes are worn as the narrow streets have very slippery cobblestones. Not that one would wear heels on a walking tour but… if you were thinking about it..just don’t.
Participate in a wine tasting
Before walking over Mostar Bridge, stop at the Spirit of Herzegovina for a $10 USD wine tasting with beautiful views and to shop for local female-made products.
Swim or relax on beach
Just past the bridge is a little beach where one can sit, relax, swim, and watch people jump off the structure. The “professionals” that jump from the bridge use this as their livelihood, so they will only hop in if they collect enough money from passersby. Consider donating a couple coins before heading to the river. Interested in jumping yourself? The city charges the equivalent of $50 USD and requires all tourists to sign an accident waiver in advance. If you’re too nervous, stick to taking an afternoon dip in the Neretva River — just know that the water is freezing!
Stroll through the markets
Take an hour to walk through the markets (Čaršija) in Old Town. Purchase items like turkish tea sets, pottery, paintings, embroidered clothes, among many things. Bring cash as most places do not accept cards.
Climb the steps of the Koski Mehmed-Pasha Mosque
Pay the equivalent of around $3 USD to climb to the top of Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque to see beautiful views of Mostar. Unlike other mosques, women do not need to cover their head to enter.
Visit the Museum of War and Genocide Victims
For around $10 USD, visit the Museum of War and Genocide Victims in Old Town. This museum depicts the atrocities during the war, some specifically in Mostar. Consider skipping this if you already completed (or plan to complete) several of the war museums in Sarajevo, as the set up and stories are very similar. Although it is important information, it might become a little too repetitive and overwhelming.
Drive to the Blagaj Monastery (Blagaj Tekija)
The Blagaj Monastery is an ancient Ottoman structure built into the side of a mountain along the Buna River, just twenty minutes from Mostar. It was constructed by the Muslim Dervish fraternity and used as a sacred place to worship starting in the 14th century. Entrance is around $10 USD/person. Note that six Bosnian marks in cash are needed to park. Day trip tours from Mostar are also available.
RESTAURANT/BAR OUTLINE
- Urban Takes of Orient — balcony with views
- Restaurant Lagero — Bridge views. Make a reservation ahead of time. Cash only but accepts marks, US dollars, and euros.
- Restaurant Šadrvan
SPEND MORE TIME IN THE BALKANS
Heading to other Balkan countries? View my guides on Slovenia, Durmitor National Park in Montenegro, and Belgrade, Serbia.
Transferring directly to Belgrade? Consider taking a private transfer with Meet Bosnia Tours (from Sarajevo). Stop at three main places between East Bosnia and West Serbia (where most of the 90’s war took place) while listening to your guide talk about their experience during the chaos. We valued our driver’s input more than the stops themselves and skipped the 2.5 hour historic train ride as its reviews were mediocre. This gave us more time to dive into our guide’s past. He provided incredible insight into what it was like to be a child living in the basement of his house in Sarajevo for four years, prevented from leaving due to the threat of snipers and bombings. The stops, especially the small town of Višegrad that was the target of many attacks, added more explanation to his experience. The entire trip is worth the spend and can be done in reverse.
