Top things to do in Tirana, Albania
- Date visited: July 2023
- Time needed: 1–2 days, 2 nights
General Information
Albania, a nation in the Balkans, is roughly the size of Maryland and has a population of over three million. It is a country of religious harmony — its two main practices being Islam (60%) and Catholicism (20%). And although it has grown rapidly in tourism — from virtually no tourists in 2010 to over 10 million tourists in 2022 — it remains the third poorest nation in Europe, next to Ukraine and Moldova. This is directly due to the communist regime that plagued the nation from 1945 to 1991.
History
After World War II — unlike many other Balkan nations — Albania remained its own country as it avoided invasion from the SSR and Germany. This allowed for nefarious dictator and Stalin-enthusiast Enver Hoxha to take over and develop a one party system, transforming Albania into essentially a large prison. He closed the country to the outside world, apart from strategic partnerships with communist Russia and China. Those friendships eventually ended as well, as he accused them (for lack of a better term) of not being “communist enough.”
Albania was then completely isolated. Hoxha had created one of the worst communist regimes ever to exist in Europe. Residents were under strict lockdown. Moving from one city to another wasn’t allowed unless one had legal government permission. The nation experienced regular power shortages. Car ownership, religion, exiting the country, and opposing the regime were all banned. Anyone who tried to escape was hanged and the public, including children, was forced to watch.
Hoxha’s party adopted a “collective punishment” policy similar to North Korea where three generations of family members were sent to internment camps for the crimes of a single member. In the eyes of the state, all generations were traitors. Over the course of Hoxha’s reign, 5,000 people were murdered and 45,000 were sent to labor camps.
To add, Hoxha was so convinced that the outside world wanted to destroy Albania in a nuclear attack that he ordered the construction of over 170,000 bunkers nationwide, five bunkers for every square mile. These concrete domes were reinforced with steel and iron, making Albania the second most tunneled country in the world next to North Korea. Close to one hundred people each year died from this construction. This insane isolation continued until Hoxha’s death in 1985. After many rebellions, many of which were led by college students, a democratic system was put in place in 1991 that put the country on a path towards healing.
This was not without its struggles. Because citizens had no understanding of the outside world, they were insanely overwhelmed when different cultures poured in. Coca Cola was one of the first companies to set up shop. People loved the brand so much that they even decorated their house interiors with its brightly colored cans to enrich their monotone communist-era homes.
Bananas were another odd commodity — and people went quite literally “bananas” over them. Albanians, having struggled with starvation for decades, had never seen or tasted anything so sweet. Some were even scared and refused to try it in fear of being poisoned. One of our tour guides described his parents’ experience. They were so fearful of something bad happening that they waited three months for society to deem the fruit safe. Then his mother, upon watching her husband enjoy the snack, waited three cautious hours before trying it herself! Overall, people were so bombarded with new ideas and ways of life that they were unsure of what to believe and how to act due to their prolonged isolation.
Albania’s growth is an exceptional story. It’s not without its flaws — the nation is still very corrupt and many former politicians are being investigated or in jail — but it is making huge strides. It is a fascinating country to visit — so go soon! I predict this nation is about to explode in popularity.
As for Tirana — it was a highlight of my Balkans trip. Located in the middle of the country surrounded by mountains, it is home to one million citizens and is the epicenter of history, culture, and excitement.
Communication
Albanian is the main language. Although not everyone speaks English fluently, most younger Albanians know enough to communicate with visitors.
One fun thing to note is that Albanians communicate “yes” and “no” by shaking their head both up and down and left and right. These gestures are interchangeable — and for a tourist, make it hard to understand what locals mean! Keep an eye out for this to see for yourself.
Weather
Summers in Tirana are dry and hot; sometimes climbing as high as 113°F. The main squares, made of stone and concrete and lacking in shade, are even hotter. Winters are mild and rainy with average temperatures around 55°F. The best time to visit is between April through June and September through October.
Safety
Tirana is a relatively safe city, where even petty crime rarely exists. Albanians are very hospitable to visitors. Be smart and you’ll be fine.
Traveling around
Albanians are some of the worst and maniacal drivers I’ve ever encountered. This is likely because they’ve only been permitted to drive since the 1991 revolution. We passed a driving school — so I can confirm these exist — though I’m not sure how well everyone follows the rules of the road! In my experience, people drive far faster than the speed limit, cut each other off, and run red lights consistently. Mercedes are the vehicle of choice in the nation so although drivers are insane, at least they ride in style.
To travel from the airport to the city center, take the Luna Transfer bus that leaves every hour on the hour for $5 USD one way.
Wifi
Fast wifi is available in most establishments.
Payment
The main currency is the Albanian Lek. Cash is widely preferred, so credit cards are accepted less than half the time. Visit an ATM immediately upon arrival to play it safe.
Most of this outline highlights costs in USD. Know that this is a conversion to make it easier for some readers. Costs vary and everything is charged in the local currency when in person.
Drinking Water
Tap water is unsafe to drink in the entire country. All water must be sourced from water bottles.
Tipping
Tipping is not expected at restaurants and bars but consider tipping 10% if the service is beyond exceptional. Tour guides should be tipped at least 10%.
Accommodations / Areas to Stay
Blloku, a bohemian quarter filled with bars and restaurants, is the best area to stay in. It’s the heart of all attractions. Airbnb offers great and affordable options. If a hotel is preferred, book a room at the Sky Hotel.
Top things to do in Tirana (in no particular order)
Note: All key sights in Tirana are closeby, so providing a full “itinerary” is unnecessary. Select the places you want to visit when it makes the most sense to you and know that they are almost all within walking distance from each other.
Free Walking Tour
The best way to see and understand a city is by taking a free walking tour. This is particularly so with Tirana as the city has so much rich and intense history.
Tirana Free Tour offers daily two hour tours at 10am and 6pm, capturing the fervor and essence of the city in a unique perspective. Start in Skanderbeg Square, named after Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu, a national hero who liberated Albania from the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. Walk to key areas like the Et’hem Bey Mosque, a structure that evaded destruction during the atheist Communist reign because it was considered not a religious place of worship but a cultural monument. Pass by the “House of Tirana,” home of former dictator Enver Hoxha from 1975 until his death in 1985. The building is now uninhabited, covered in overgrown weeds and faded paint. The nefarious leader hated capitalism so it’s hubris that a KFC is now located across the street. An image of the chain’s icon, Colonel Sanders, is humorously stationed as if it’s looking directly onto Hoxha’s property, symbolically touting a capitalist win.
Also pass by Murat Toptani Street, a large pedestrian, tree-lined road named after the rich Toptani family that was the leading noble household during the Ottoman Empire. Today it is home to many cafes and restaurants. In addition, stroll through Lulishte Ismail Qemali, a small park famous for its monuments that highlight three pillars of the communist regime — isolation, paranoia, and imprisonment. Those monuments include a section of the Berlin Wall, an art structure made out of pieces of an internment camp, and an underground bunker.
Tirana Castle
Tirana Castle, dating back to the 1300’s, is not quite as it sounds. Unlike other European castles, there are no rooms, museums, or artifacts to ogle. What remains of the castle is purely a stone wall. The attraction now is the slew of modern bars and restaurants inside the gates. Grab lunch or a drink here.
Pazari i Ri / New Bazaar
Pazari i Ri, the new bazaar of Tirana, is a fun market filled with an array of items, including fresh produce, hand painted pottery, trinkets, and war memorabilia. Fair warning — don’t purchase the seemingly innocuous bottles of “water” unless you’re looking for a fiery surprise. The bottles aren’t filled with h2o — they’re filled with homemade rakia, a double distilled fruit brandy with a HIGH alcohol content. Proceed cautiously! After scanning the market, grab a traditional Albanian lunch at the favored Oda Restaurant next door.
Bunk’Art 1 and 2
During his communist reign, Hoxha was so convinced that Albanian would be the subject of a nuclear attack that he ordered the building of 170,000 nuclear bunkers across the country. In Tirana, two of these bunkers have been turned into museums — Bunk’Art 1 and 2. Their names are a bit deceiving. Contrary to popular belief, these are not art museums. Instead, they’re exhibits that depict the torture, hardships, and paranoia of his dictatorship.
Bunk’Art 1 is the larger of the two as it was Hoxha’s personal bunker for himself and his government. The exhibit focuses more on the life and dictatorship of Hoxha. It is located outside of the city center, just a quick bus ride away. Take the Blue bus L11 from Opera House Square which comes every ten minutes. Purchase tickets on the bus.
Bunk’Art 2 is right downtown and was once the offices for the ministry of internal affairs. This exhibit focuses on the communist military regime and its harsh impact on prisoners, victims, and everyday life. Entry is $8 USD, cash only (in lek). Visit one or the other — not both — as they offer similar information. We didn’t get a chance to get to Bunk’Art 1 but heard it has even more to see.
I visited Bunk’Art 2 and have mixed reviews. It was really interesting to walk through the dark tunnels of an actual bunker to better understand the gravity of Hoxha’s paranoia. However, the exhibit itself provided far too much scattered information, making it confusing to grasp the true conflict. It would have been better if it focused on key aspects of the bunkers and simplified its descriptions. Not to mention, the English translations were poorly done so it was a task to decipher what was being described. Overall I valued the larger takeaway — how crazed the dictator was and how the military so harshly impacted the lives of innocent Albanians.
Dajti Ekspres Cable Car
The Dajti Ekspres Cable Car, also outside the city center, is a quick walk from Bunk’Art 1 so pair these together. At close to three miles, it is the Balkans’ longest cableway and takes about fifteen minutes each way. The excursion brings visitors to the top of Dajti Mountain for amazing views of the city and farmland. A bar and restaurant is also available at the top.
House of Leaves Museum
The House of Leaves Museum, also referred to as the Museum of Secret Surveillance, is an exhibit depicting the methods used to spy on citizens during Hoxha’s communist reign. It is housed in the former Secret Service headquarters. Pair this with either Bunk Art 1 or 2.
Grand Park of Tirana
The Grand Park of Tirana was one of my favorite places in the city. The beautiful park is huge, offers tons of shade, and is adorned with cute bars along the artificial lake. It’s a great place to go for a break in the chaos. We brought our laptops and worked at one of the little cafes next to the water.
Note: Swimming is prohibited.
Restaurants
Take time to dive into Albanian cuisine and food culture. Blloku, the bohemian quarter, is one of the best places to do this as it’s filled with great bars and restaurants. Try Radio Bar for fancy yet affordable cocktails, Tribe for Albanian and international cuisine, and Era for Mediterranean adored by locals and travelers alike.
Note: Don’t use Google Maps as your bible as it often displays incorrect information about restaurant locations and hours of operation.
Place to avoid — National Historical Museum
Numerous people urged us to skip the National Historical Museum as it lacks English translations and is a bit dry.
SPEND MORE TIME IN THE BALKANS
Heading to other Balkan countries? View my guides on Slovenia, Bosnia, Durmitor National Park in Montenegro, and Belgrade, Serbia.
